/ Preparation for Lleyn/Gogarth

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paul mitchell - on 11 Sep 2012
MARABOU E1/2 5A

A lovely crumbly route at New Mills Torrs,up the corner left of Alcove Crack.Climbed on sight ,thinking it was a repeat ascent.
Make sure to leave enough holds on it for the second to follow.
P .Rhodes belay.

Dog Bin Crack VS 4C

This is 15 feet left of the dog bin by the huge Archimedes screw generator by the weir at the Torrs.
70 feet,big holds on a gently overhanging wall with plenty of gear.
At the ledge,put a runner on the tree on the right,then take the bulge on the left side.Lovely oak tree for the ab.A nice exposed vs on good rock.
P.Rhodes belay and 2ndasc.

Al Evans on 11 Sep 2012
In reply to paul mitchell:
> MARABOU E1/2 5A
>
> A lovely crumbly route at New Mills Torrs,up the corner left of Alcove Crack.Climbed on sight ,thinking it was a repeat ascent.
> Make sure to leave enough holds on it for the second to follow.
> P .Rhodes belay.

Are you sure this is not the route done by myself, Andrea and Pete Cowgill as The Stork in 1989, I can't think of another corner line there?
Tobias at Home - on 11 Sep 2012
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to paul mitchell)
> [...]
>
> Are you sure this is not the route done by myself, Andrea and Pete Cowgill as The Stork in 1989, I can't think of another corner line there?

Sounds like every crumbly ascent is a first ascent!
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paul mitchell - on 14 Sep 2012
In reply to Al Evans: According to the latest guide,the Stork takes the wall just right and moves right at about 2/3 height.Looked like the corner hadn't been touched,as I pulled off some large blocks with no trouble at all.

Perfect guides are hard to find,as are writers who ask detailed questions on first ascents.

regards,Mitch

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