/ Sardinia - where to be based?

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sarahjharrison - on 13 Sep 2012
I'm thinking about a 10-day trip to Sardinia, end Oct/ start Nov. I'm a little lost with the number of crags, not to mention the number of guidebooks out there. Without pointing me to previous articles (which I've probably read), what are people's recommended areas for 10 days of single-pitch on-sighting and 1-day 'projects'? 6s would be nice, 7s required, 8s not necessary. We'd like a variety of climbing, in terms of angles, and both limestone & granite within reach if poss.
Thanks!
Owen W-G - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to sarahjharrison:

Cala Gonone is an obvious choice. Lots of crags in every direction. Can't vouch for the 7s but the 6s were good there.

There's bigger and better crags elsewhere (Isili, Jerzu) on the isle but are not in such concentrated areas as CG to my knowledge.
sarahjharrison - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to Owen W-G:
Thanks Owen. Anyone else?
Robert Durran - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to sarahjharrison:

The Ogliastra area gives a wide variety of different angles and styles in a variety of really beautiful settings from mountains to sea. Jerzu within reach too. A bit more spread out than Cala Gonone (no problem with a car), but also less polished and less busy! Lots of multi-pitch stuff too.
Robert Durran - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to sarahjharrison)
>
> The Ogliastra area.....

And, if you call in and buy the local topos, I am sure the man on the spot ( http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=47566 ) would be very helpful.
Peter Herold - on 13 Sep 2012
Hi Sarah, all 5 of Sardinia's main climbing areas (Iglesiente/SW, Sassari, Cala Gonone/Dorgali, Isili and Ogliastra/SE coast) offer "single-pitch on-sighting and 1-day 'projects'? 6s would be nice, 7s required, 8s not necessary."

Asking for both limestone and granite narrows it down massively: only Ogliastra/SE coast offers both, and there are only three granite crags but they are really good:
1. Cava Usai (Villasimius, faces E, good for autumn/winter, lovely setting above the sea) See photo http://www.sardiniaclimb.com/default/AlbumCopertine/pages/CopAndrea2.html
2. not as many routes but 3 superb 7a+/7b flared offwidths which would meet your onsighting goals at Lucertole al Sole in Lotzorai, we live 2 km away. Look up Lotzorai on it.wikipedia.org to see Johny Dawes onsighting one of them
3. porphyry: Praidas at Villagrande, remote setting, recent visitors felt they were in the film Deliverance.

All three are much better than Cala Spinosa at Capo Testa whose rusty bolts and 3 hours' driving distance from any other crags makes it not worh considering IMHO.

The only guidebook describing these crags is the 5th edition of Pietra di Luna, the guide to the whole island with 4000 singlepitch routes. If you base yourself on the east coast, somewhere between Cardedu and Santa Maria Navarrese, you have the 800 single-pitch routes of Ogliastra, Villasimius 1:30 away for a day trip and the Ogliastra crags 10-40 mins away. All angles, from the slabs of Serra Oseli and Genna Croce (Brits would call them walls) to wall climbing at Jerzu and the steeper routes on tufas at Ulassai (eg Cave of Dreams http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gd-Seu_nFJE but there are great 7's).

The east coast also has some great MP routes, not all waiting for James Pearson and Carlone Ciavaldini to repeat them as in this "really makes you want-to climb here" trailer http://www.vimeo.com/48945732

Good luck Peter
pauljackson - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to sarahjharrison: We spent our 7 days based in Cala Gonone and found it to be very well positioned for great climbing and access to a lovely town. We found plenty of climbing in our groups grade range of F5 - F7 and all within walking distance or a very short drive and walk. Climbing was great, rock was great, weather was great, place was great, what more can be said?
sarahjharrison - on 14 Sep 2012
In reply to pauljackson: Thanks for all the info & opinions guys.
Peter Herold - on 14 Sep 2012
If you were to stay in Cala Gonone, and wanted to drive to Praidas (Villagrande) as the nearest granite crag and in the shade in the afternoon, the fastest route would seem to be Dorgali - SS125- Urzulei-Talana BUT the road between Talana and Villagrande is blocked by massive landslides, here's a photo
http://www.peteranne.it/wp-content/flagallery/sardinia-mountain-biking-urzulei-talana/many-landslide...

In fact you would have to get first to Villagrande and then drive back along the road towards Talana. The maps don't show the road closed, and unfortunately the guidebook doesn't mention it either, even though this landslide has been there for at least 5 years.

At the seaside cliffs pay attention to bolts after recent cases of failures (two in Sardinia, lots around the world) see
http://www.peteranne.it/blog/2012/08/failures-of-stainless-steel-bolts-on-sea-side-crags/
http://www.peteranne.it/blog/2012/08/failures-of-stainless-steel-bolts-on-sea-side-crags-2/
This is an update on my 3 June 2012 UKC post http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=508276

cheers Peter
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totoi - on 27 Sep 2012

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