/ 1st time winter climber - Scotland here i come!

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Noob on 23 Sep 2012 - host213-122-200-100.range213-122.btcentralplus.com
HI guys!

Just bought a rake of new climbing gear from an american company to try winter climbing out!

Ice Axes
http://shop.gear4rocks.com/en/ice-snow/ice-axe-tool/prod_130.html

Crampons
http://shop.gear4rocks.com/en/ice-snow/crampons-pair/prod_127.html

Ice screws (5 of!)
http://shop.gear4rocks.com/en/ice-snow/steel-ice-screw-200-mm/prod_189.html

thinking starting around grade IV/V ish?

any advice or climbing partner welcome!

Cheers Guys!

Lorne


scottie390 - on 23 Sep 2012
holy f*ck
tom_in_edinburgh - on 23 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob:

If you think their climbing gear is crap you should see their nuclear power stations.

LakesWinter on 23 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob: good troll
summitjunkie - on 23 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob: An american company, eh?... in Ukraine??!! ... and with this gear you're 'starting around grade IV/V ish'? Interesting!

Nice to see your enthusiasm though! ;-)
Cameron94 on 23 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob: 2/10

Try harder next time
In reply to summitjunkie: Aren't those the weird step-in ice tools that Russian and other ex-Soviet climbers used to use? They had some sort of hooks attached by their knees and you would clip into slings to sort of aid with them. Very different from western traditions but some mental routes done using that technique.
summitjunkie - on 23 Sep 2012
In reply to TobyA: Not sure - I can honestly say that I am NOT an authority on Russian and Soviet climbing equipment history, though I bet Vitaly Abalakov would have turned his nose up at these - they look like they're made from a Meccano set. ;-)
Alex Slipchuk on 23 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob: is "noob" short for nude book. Remember a good troll is one which the OP posts an jaggy post, lights a fuse so to speak, and sits back and awaits the "feedback".
Steve Perry - on 23 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob: Good trolling, 7/10
Cambridge-Climber - on 23 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob: Enjoy, winter climbing rocks!!
Glen - on 23 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob:

Those crampons appear to be footfangs.

I still have an original pair and they are actually quite good, apart from when walking down steep snow slopes:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=108344
george mc - on 23 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob:

Looks like top notch quality kit. What limit your sights at IV/V - with this sort of gear I'd have thought VI/VII would be more realistic? Argue for your limitations and they are yours. Oh what the heck - go for XI. Must be safe - loads of gear.
Camm on 23 Sep 2012
In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:
This
Milesy - on 24 Sep 2012
VI+ is definately within reaches when you use these:

http://www.karatemart.com/images/products/main/ninja-hand-claws.jpg
Alex Slipchuk on 24 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob: Given the fact that noo(d)b(ook) has not responded to other follow up posts. Can we now safely assume that this is all a troll and now just ignore the post so as not to encourage any other such behaviour. I'll also send 20 skulls round their drum to pure chop em up, no!
Trangia - on 24 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob:

What a miserable lot you all are.

The guy was looking for a climbing partner for his Scottish adventure, as well as advice - not one of you has rushed forward to partner him.....

I've got a pair of instep crampons and a walking axe for use on these Grade Xls. Unfortunately I shall be otherwise engaged or I'd have shown him the way.
Milesy - on 24 Sep 2012
In reply to The Big Man:
> Can we now safely assume that this is all a troll and now just ignore the post so as not to encourage any other such behaviour.

The wind up to winter is when this forum comes alive though :):)
purplemonkeyelephant - on 24 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob:

This is going to be my first winter too. These seem like very good deals, could I really get up to those grades?
Noob on 25 Sep 2012 - host81-153-122-88.range81-153.btcentralplus.com
ok. it would seem that i may have overestimated my ability and the general vibe am getting is my gear isnt great, but someone onece told me you dont need the best of gear to learn.

still looking for a partner
ads.ukclimbing.com
Harry Holmes - on 25 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob: Those axes look amazing. Like cheap versions of those small monster that grivel make (little monsters?)
scottie390 - on 25 Sep 2012
Ok mate, al level with you. Your axes are a bit unconventional, im not saying they're shit im just saying they're quite basic. Grivel do make a similar version call mini monsters for kids. With the crampons, they look a bit like grivel 2F's, so maybe look for anti balling plates for the 2F's and bastardise up some for yourself.

Just take it easy with the grades and have fun safely mate!
Thoms6974 - on 26 Sep 2012
Charlie Burbridge - on 30 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob: those screws look just like the ones that were doing the rounds in Chamonix during the late eighties and early nineties. I never took a fall onto one but I am reliably informed that had I done so the hangar would have snapped. Good times.
Ghastly Rubberfeet on 30 Sep 2012
In reply to Noob:

1/10 for the troll, but...

Given that the crampons look like Footfangs without the plate, the axes appear to be on a par (if not better than)Teradactyls and the ice screws are similar to stuff around in the early 1980's you'll be fine on V/VI on the Ben.

Looks no worse than stuff I was using then.


joan cooper - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Ghastly Rubberfeet: OMG now you tell me!!!!!!
CurlyStevo - on 02 Oct 2012
In reply to Ghastly Rubberfeet:
the axes don't have teeth they will just slip out of water ice.
Diggler - on 03 Oct 2012
abcdefg - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

> the axes don't have teeth they will just slip out of water ice.

The original Clog Vultures didn't have any teeth to speak of, and they worked.

I'm with Ghastly Rubberfeet: this gear looks better than stuff we all used to use!
CurlyStevo - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to abcdefg:
Really?

I once filed down the teeth on one of my quarks a bit too much and it was ghastly on water ice, kept popping out of the placements!
CurlyStevo - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to abcdefg:
tbh the vultures look a lot nicer and do have some teeth

http://www.smhc.co.uk/objects_item.asp?item_id=31975

The front of the pick inclines too so is a kind of tooth.
CurlyStevo - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to Noob:
you should get in touch with DJ Viper and Mountain Spirit you guys would make an unstoppable team.
abcdefg - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to CurlyStevo:

> tbh the vultures look a lot nicer and do have some teeth
>

That's a nice website which I was unaware of - so thanks. I have just been nostalgically looking at pictures of gear, some of which I still use!

> The front of the pick inclines too so is a kind of tooth.

Yes, it depends on the angle of the pick. The Vultures are so steeply drooped that they can't simply be swung at hard water ice: they need a kind of downwards flick at the end of the swing. But the steep angle means that that they are then naturally hooked in. The tools in this thread probably work the same way.
CurlyStevo - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to abcdefg:
My mountaineering axe (the grivel evo) has a pick a bit like that, although less so. I was suprised how well it works in ice.
Kevin Rutherford - on 11 Oct 2012
In reply to Noob:Ukranian testing, mmmnnn? Shiney picks, nae teeth....?? Id recommend going on a course ;-)
Steve Wakeford - on 12 Oct 2012
In reply to Noob: oh my days! What have you started with your post? You might as well have put "please abuse me"

Anyway, look, I've not tried winter climbing yet either but I am ridiculously keen. Having said that I also don't know where best to start. I have some details of a few guides that I was planning to call on to get some training before heading out on my own.... Would you be keen to join?

Having said that, I would also be happy to entertain just going out and trying it post having a good old chat to see if it would work.

I'm currently based in London but have a camper van so will travel to Scotland once conditions are good.

Get in touch if you like

Steve

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