/ Sealing Wooden Windows
I am working on my wooden windows and have to replace some of the wooden beading strips at the bases of several windows. In a lot of cases water has got down the back of these and rotted the main window frame below so I want to make a proper seal this time.
What is the best way to seal a beading strip? Some people seem to use putty, and others use silicone sealant. The former seems to me to be more long-lasting but harder to actually work and it inevitably dries and cracks anyway.
In my previous life in a window factory we used mastic sealant tape and then a thin silicone bead over the top.
No, that's true, but the paint only really needs to stick to the wooden beading, if the seal behind the beading is a good one.
The problem we have had with the current windows is that seal has corroded which has meant water has got down the back of the beading and rotted from within.
Just did all our windows last month. I used putty. If most of the existing putty is OK and it's just the bottom of the pane that has dried out/cracked (as was the case with ours), then it's better to leave the glass in place and simply scrape out the the dried stuff and re-point it. It was quite easy to do. I wondered about the problem of the putty drying out - we're at 1300m and south facing - but the guy insisted that putty would be fine and would last at least 10 > 15 years. He said silicone would be rather messy... but that probably says more about me!
If you insist on beading strips I would have though loads of silicon bunged in is the way to go. Don't worry about the excess squeezed out on refitting the bead, just cut it flush with a knife once it has set.
Curious, the builder I spoke to the other day was all for beading strips over putty (I forgot to ask him about the combination). Also, it does look nicer if you have a nice tidy beading strip.
The other problem we have is that all the windows in the house have beading strips hence putty would look odd on selected windows, although not the sort of odd I couldn't live with.
Sounds like you and Hardonicus are talking cross purposes? Have you got wooden glazing beads that were originally sealed with putty? Hardonicus seems to be referring to glazing using just putty and no bead.
Putty lasts a long time, but requires you to keep up with you paint maintenance to stop it drying out and cracking.
If you don't use putty, an adhesive sealants typically used in marine environments (like Sikaflex) would be longer lasting than silicon. Obviously the wood beneath needs to have a low moisture content and should coated with an oil based wood preservative, else nothing will stick.
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