In reply to Little Billy:
The problem is that no guidebook can possibly do the forest justice. On my first trip I used the Purple guide linked, and whilst it's by no means perfect, found it perfectly adequate (we didn't have the ign map) and found the boulders easily enough - sometimes this meant having to back trace the numbers on the boulders to the start of the circuit to orientate ourselves, but it's not that hard.
I also thought it had a reasonable selection of interest pages and history listing routes to seek out at most grades e.g. Marie Rose, Science Friction l'helicoptere etc.
I also find that it's idea of quick drying, crowded, nasty landings etc was accurate.
On the other hand, one time we went we bought the (new at the time) Jingo Wobbly guide which was bloody awful, only covered in any depth 10% of the forest, and had a ridiculously complex legend and symbols, and in terms of accuracy, the quick drying symbols were just wrong.
I guess if you want to go and just work the hardest problems at your limit, then the purple guide is of limited use, but if you want to experience font properly, then wandering around the forest lost in the wonder of it all whilst a little confused as to why the boulder in front of you has a black 12 on it instead of a red one is all part of the experience.
And remember, the famous routes are not necessarily the best, there are too many good and interesting problems out there (as well as some pretty pointless dull ones)
On your first trip, don't be surprised if you get spat off a 3c or two the grading is somewhat erratic, and there's a certain familiarity needed with the rock!
Musardier will be open for camping, and in the winter months you'll find old BBQs and things available for you to have an open fire in.
Enjoy!