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Topic - First ascent citations

chawn_met - on 27 Oct 2012
Having hailed from Arizona, I may have a different view on this topic than many others on this forum. The issue is for FA's that require multiple attempts does the final, successful ascent party get all of the credit for the FA? There is a recent traversing route on the climbing database that required two attempts and different seconds were involved in each ascent. On the first attempt, the leader had to rest on his gear very close to the final moves but pulled all of the moves without resorting to direct aid other than resting on the rope. I think the first ascent citation should acknowledge all of the seconds on these attempts instead of only the second lucky enough to be on the blunt end of the rope when the final successful ascent was carried out. As this route traverses through the majority of its length, the second was taking a non-trivial risk in following it. Indeed, the second on the first attempt took a nasty swing. In addition, the second had no control over where the gear was placed to protect his fall and had no prior experience on any of the routes that were being linked by the traverse. (The leader had spent a great deal of time rehearsing the moves of the six routes that were linked by the route but not the traversing moves between the routes.) The second was taking as much risk as the leader on the majority of the route with no prior knowledge of the routes.

To acknowledge the efforts of both seconds, I have suggested an FA citation of this form:

FA 23 Oct 2012 [Leader], [second on successful attempt], [second on first attempt]

This is the format used in southern Arizona where multiple attempts on FA's are quite frequent due to the remote, multi-pitch nature of the climbing. I know of a citation with 8 different seconds listed.

The leader has chosen to remove the second on the first attempt from the citation.

Before anyone asks, I was not either of these seconds although I am friends with all parties involved in the FA.

What is the consensus here on this issue? Should the second on the first attempt appear in the citation?
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