In reply to Mike Pescod:
Before this thread cropped up I had asked the John Muir Trust why there was no abseil aid. It seemed to me that the marker served two purposes, one as a marker and two, as an abseil aid when the cornice is big. I had spoken to Martin as he was building the cairn and he had been quite positive about it so to save anyone else asking them the same question, here is their answer:
> Firstly thank you for your enquiry regarding the work done on number 4 marker, secondly apologies for the time it has taken me to get back to you.
> To answer your question over the reason behind there being no abseil aid added to the cairn:
> The John Muir Trust as a wild land organisation would prefer that there were no artificial markers, including cairns on their property what so ever, as set out in our policy statement on the management of the Ben Nevis summit plateau:
http://www.jmt.org/policy-ben-nevis-summit-management.asp
> However we do recognize that there are specific navigation aids, especially on the Ben that have distinct, historical mountaineering importance that serve as a significant safety feature.
> Through the consultation the John Muir Trust had, which ran from November 2011 to the end of May then the consensus was we needed to maintain a navigational aid at the location of the redundant aluminum post.
> The John Muir Trust worked closely with the MCofS and sought advice widely from professional mountaineering sources. It is recognized that a metal post is easier to retrieve a rope from if used to abseil; but has the potential to bend and fail, as would a staple. It is also recognized that a cairn will accumulate snow on its leeward side, potentially making it non visible in high density snow conditions. An appropriate compromise is the now built 1.8 metre high cairn with a small ‘No 4’ on the cap stone to avoid any possible confusion. Those who choose to abseil at this point may choose to construct a snow bollard.
> Both the JMT and MCofS maintain that as a climber/mountaineer it is important to develop continual self reliance in the mountains
> Yes I agree the cairn may well accumulate tat, which as with Tower gap, may well be removed by any mountain user at any time. I also understand that Martin considered a staple in the cairn to be possible, but not appropriate in this given situation.
> I have tried to cover your query as best as I can, if you’re still in doubt please do get back in touch.