/ Easier Brean link ups

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Richard Popp - on 19 Nov 2012
Hi, in the comments for Pearl Harbour it mentions moving into Tide Rising at third bolt, 7a+. Seems optomistic-anyone care to add anything to this? Also any other possible variations under 7a+.
cheers

Rich
catt on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Richard Popp:

It's been a couple of years but if I remember right if you arrive at the 3rd bolt on Tide Rising by whatever means you are about to enter the crux... so 7a+ highly optimistic!

I think there is a link up about that grade that starts on Tide Rising and traverses the break to finish up one of the 6cs, or vice versa. Sure you could wander over most of the beach wall at around 6c/7a.
AJM - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to catt:

I assumed it meant traversing right from Pearl Harbour at/above its third bolt, which is the one towards the top of the steep section, just before the one in the back of the groove. If you did that I could imagine you could reach the fourth or perhaps fifth bolt of Tide Rising by coming in from the left and avoiding the crux - maybe clipping the fourth on tide rising (the one you clip from the crimps at the lip) and pulling over the lip to then trend rightwards (Tide Rising is described as having a finish either to the Pearl Harbour lower off or the one to the right on the trad corner, so I assume they mean the right one for it to have more than about 6 feet of independence).

I've not done that link, but if you have the right sequence for getting over the top lip on Tide Rising its not that tough and I could see it being in the 7a+ sort of region.

In terms of other eliminates/linkups in the lower grades, SWC mentions the Chulilla of Conscience linkup which is apparently soft 7b. You can effectively do a rising traverse, starting from Coral Sea/Chepito and finishing top left somewhere on the good holds at the top of the "warmup" routes on the far left at 6b ish maybe depending on exactly where you go, quite antisocial but possibly a decent lower grade warmup (if you're not up for warming up on Coral Sea) since its quite steady.
Ian Parsons - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Richard Popp:

One obvious option is to link the start of Pearl Harbour with the finish of Chepito to give a route that's slightly easier than either of them. As I recall this can be done at two possible levels - with either your hands or feet on the good holds at the top of the lower steep bit. Can't quite remember how the bolts work out doing this; it might be necessary to run it out, or to pre-hang a sling on Pearl Harbour's next bolt - ie the one you'd otherwise not quite get to.
Tomar - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Richard Popp: Hi Richard, I was just speaking to James Marshall (who came up with this 7a+ link) about this other day. Here is how it goes accordng to him:
Climb pearl harbour up to the break then instead of going up into the scoop, use the pocket just above the break for your left hand and pull up and right into the top of tide rising clipping the bolt above the nail crux of tide raising (4th bolt of TR I think), then continue as for TR which means up and right to the belay (and not left as most people seem to do, it just adds extra spice as the moves are easy but a bit unsecure and on small holds). Should be good! I would have thought doing the crux on TR from PH would make it about 7b
Richard Popp - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Richard Popp: Cheers for replies everyone-Tomar that makes sense, Andy would Chulilla of Conscience be starting up Chulilla to break and continuing up Prisoners on Conscience, cant see a menetion in South west Climbs but my copy very old.

Last BMC guide mentions 2- Vets Wall, 7b from Brean Dream(6b)head right across to top of Tide Rising 27m, 7b for the pump and Sargasso Seamonster-starting up Three Snaps to Heaven (Trad corner) and heading left to finnish at the top of Bikini Atoll, 27m 7a+.

Not exactly projects to set the heart racing but something for me to think about-and aim for.

Cheers

Rich
AJM - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Richard Popp:

The new south west climbs out this year... photo of arms race on the front cover. But yes, exactly as you've said.

Those two diagonal traverses strike me as logistically very difficult given how busy Brean is these days.

What have you done at Brean? I'd have thought a sensible progression would probably be Coral Sea at 6c, then Chepito & Pearl Harbour at 7a-ish (obviously you've done one of these ;), then perhaps Roof of Inequity at 7a+ or so, then maybe Chulilla of Conscience, not that I've done it but it might be worth a look next time. Theres that other 7b too, Clashing Socks, although personally its never appealed. Those are, apart from CofC, independent lines so easier logistically than linkups especially of those permanently crowded beach routes.

Then i guess longer term theres Chulilla perhaps if youve already worked out the start although I get on with Tide Rising better to be honest.
AJM - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to AJM:
> Those are, apart from CofC, independent lines so easier logistically than linkups especially of those permanently crowded beach routes.

I've realised since writing this that I suppose technically lots of people use a common first bolt on Chepito and Coral Sea, and that Roof shares the first clip with El Chocco, but in the former case you can always just unclip should you need to share, and in the second case I've rarely seen people on El Chocco (save using its top trying Milky Bar Kid) and again you can just unclip.

Far less hassle than trying to work a route which crosses several others (save Milky Bar Kid or Prisoner of Bullworker, which based on my experience at least seem to have supplanted the lines they cannibalise in popularity to some extent).
Richard Popp - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to AJM: Hi Andy, Brean is busy but been getting there mid week, much quieter, we were the only people there last time.

Have done Coral Sea a couple of times, flashed the 6c+, did Chepito two weeks ago and am going to get on Pearl Harbour tomorrow. Tom is doing Tide Rising was thinking of trying the link-up (Rip Tide) tomorrow rather than Pearl Harbour. Have ticked my pyramid and wondering where to go next, Brean has quite a big jump between 6c/7a and the 7b+ which is realistically where I might be this time next year-perhaps it is back to Cheddar!

Rich
AJM - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Richard Popp:

Ah, I was meant to be going tomorrow but we bailed on seeing the forecast.

There's only a big gap if you ignore the 7a+ (plus this new random eliminate linkup) and the 7bs ;)

Hopefully catch you soon,

Andy
Richard Popp - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Richard Popp: Thought forecast looked good, dry from 9 with shiny spells, but yes see you soon, Rich
AJM - on 20 Nov 2012
In reply to Richard Popp:

Mine still has showers in at 9. But after a few damp days I think some of the stuff I'd want to get on would be seeping, the break on Bullworker or the streak on Black Snake Moan for example - the beach stuff will probably be drier but I ticked Tide Rising on Sunday so need a new project... Plus it's further for us too. Many excuses basically :)

Have fun...
Richard Popp - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to AJM: Hmm, Roof of Inequity- funny looking route, seen a few people gibber on it. Your right though was ignoring a few routes.

Wet wet wet, no Brean today.

R
AJM - on 21 Nov 2012
In reply to Richard Popp:

I wouldn't have it down as a frightner personally - tricky move off the ground, then an easy bit, then a powerful crux up at the top with a clean fall into space onto a bolt on the lip.

It's horrible isn't it!

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