In reply to deacondeacon:
Hey. I did a coaching session with Adam at The Edge which was well worthwhile - he assessed my strengths and weaknesses and gave some good advice on training. As you know, my goals are pretty similar but less bouldering focused (I just wanted to maintain bouldering grade while working to better trad).
I enjoyed having a structure to my indoor climbing - way better than going to the Works when it's incredibly busy and getting bored and frustrated with all the tosspots therein while aimlessly climbing the most appealing problems. After all the aerobic stamina training, 4x4s and PE sessions (redpointing) I was better at indoor climbing and was "onsighting" 7as and doing some 7a+/b in a few goes.
The only problem was that it really didn't help my trad at all. On grit, there's basically nothing you can do IMO except climb more grit. On 90% of routes, stamina is pretty much irrelevant. No amount of training is going to help with unjammable cracks (remember that miserable failure on Quietus after months of training; a couple of weeks later I had a similar experience on Handrail, also unjammable), or committing to scary/unpredicatable moves with crap gear. All the training would have helped with Pembroke, but by the time I got there I hadn't been climbing enough long routes as it had rained nearly every day for months and all the training benefits had gone.
I think training probably applies well to bouldering and sport climbing but the unless you're at the level of trad where you're actually falling off pumped (I'm not, I always fail 'cause I'm scared), it's not that great. But I still much prefered going to wall and doing 4x4s etc and having structure, as you can see a bit of improvement and it feels purposeful.