In reply to Mountain Spirit:
I have no real knowledge of yoga, so i cant comment on those exercises. However, i just thought id give my opinion. Remember the term core strength relates not just to the abs, its lower back also, dont neglect it, as it will cause imbalances if your targeting the abs all the time.
Roof climbing requires good footwork and technique, such as clamping a hold with both feet.
The core exercises i do is hanging leg raises (strict form without momentum), L sit pullups, which in turn will give your lats a good workout also. ab wheel roll-out is a fun exercise, if you dont have an ab wheel, they can be done using dumbbells if you have rounded ones.
Getting back to your original point with the yoga, the plank poses etc will work of course, but just maintaining a static pose, makes you strong in that particular position. So maybe doing core moves that require movement, IE, the back extensions and leg raises, that will sort of mimic the bending/twisting climbing involves.
And of course, to get better at roof's, climb roofs more often^^
The race is not to the swift, nor the battle to the strong, neither yet bread to the wise, nor yet riches to men of understanding, nor yet favor to men of skill; but time and chance happeneth to them all.
Train smarter, not harder.
How many ABOs have roofs? When you're bivied in slings, which is more important, the half shoulder stand or the full eaten pie?
If the grips hurt your hands, see first to the blisters.
Savvas, You might not want to hear it but having seen some of your photos I think you could make massive progress on climbing overhangs and roofs by losing some weight. You won't have to be as strong if you have less weight to hold up!
Maybe combine some cardio sessions with the yoga and a few general weights sessions? Sit ups/crunches, plank variations and push-ups are also all good for the core. As mentioned above work on your whole core not just your abs. Don't go mad to start with though - climbing lots, with a bit of yoga, will help build good core strength, and watching what you eat should help you lose weight in conjuction with some cardio.
In reply to Mountain Spirit: Hi Savvas. Some good advice above. I would suggest finding an Ashtanga Yoga (led primary series) class and trying that. The primary series includes most of the poses mentioned. You can do without the Pilates, weights, and to a certain extent, the cardio, if you practice the primary series regularly. A led class will teach you how to do the poses correctly and will certainly improve your core strength. You can practice at home, and it can become as addictive as climbing.
I sometimes see the primary series as a massively long boulder problem or sequence requiring strength and flexibility. You can learn about diet and about focus from it too
> (In reply to lost1977)
> What other ways are there to build core strenghth?
Regular binge drinking. After a few hours you'll find yourself involuntarily tensing your abs over a porcelain receptacle. If you don't manage to get a full workout, just go back out and have another couple. Anything really fizzy will work well at this stage.
If you want to see how professional athletes train, you should watch Sean Mccoll's training video and see what ab work he does http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0vOH_XGWFU However, if you want to get better at climbing steep stuff, do loads of endurance training/climbing on steep stuff.
In reply to sirreal:
+1 for the ashtanga primary series, and for your simile of it being like a boulder circuit!
For those who dont know/do yoga, ashtanga links poses, breath and "bandhas", the two main ones being mula bandha (pelvic floor) and uddiyana bandha(slight ab tension). To link poses, breath and bandhas is the goal, and is hard work/immensely satisfying.
I like it for a lot of reasons, but the main climbing benefit for me is that all the plank poses and press up moves work the opposite muscles in my (weak, flexible) shoulders that climbing doesnt.
For the OP: A really good intro (if you know some yoga asanas already) might be "Athletes Guide to Yoga" book/DVD by Sage Rountree. It gives sensible advice on bringing strength/flexibility/focus aspects of yoga into your training, with routines aimed at specific sports runners,climbers etc.
It also makes the point that (unless perfect yoga poses is your goal) you should NOT be doing yoga practice at the expense of time spent doing your sport. So get down the wall
A good pilates class should build strength better than yoga.
If classes are done using reformers and other equipment then these can easily be modified to be done at home on the floor and you can devise a daily workout that takes less than ten minutes.
The good thing about pilates and yoga is that it can done on your 'rest' days with out tiring you out. This is why endurance runnners use it to build core strength without putting on extra muscle or affecting the energy left to go out running.
> (In reply to Bouldering Ben)
> Hey BB.
> I am loosing weight but I want to loose more.
> I do circuits once a week and I am thinking of getting a bike and doing pilates.
> People mention John Dunne who was really fat but really strong and had amazing footwork aswell.