In reply to lazzaw:
> (In reply to bpmclimb) I've just updated it. Actually we did 10 minute arete which is a bit to the right of Pete's Wall. The guide says solid rock, but there is loads of loose stuff from pebble up to toaster sized now. I chucked what I could over to the left as otherwise it would have tested the helmet of my belayer. The climbing was simple but worth it for the large quartz crystals en route. Could do with a bit more cleaning
>
Thanks for the reply.
Yes. there's some looseness on 10 MA, but it's not too bad by FCQ steep route standards! In terms of rock security I'd put it on a par with the Entry Wall routes and the more solid Death Wish Area routes (Capability Brown, RIP Keef ...). A lot of climbs at FCQ are considerably looser and more dangerous, including the routes on Pete's Wall proper.
There is a lot of loose rock at FCQ, but looseness is relative, and it would be a shame if all the steeper routes got tarred with the same brush, and neglected because of that. Several are worthwhile, reasonably solid, and just need a little more traffic.
A lot of thought was given to the grade revisions, and hopefully they reliably reflect the seriousness of the climbing, although I may have got it wrong in one or two cases. 10 MA stayed at VD, as did Cookie Crumbles - but if either were to get Severe to reflect looseness it would be the latter.
I didn't find the rock on Yet Another Bristolian Affair too bad, and didn't feel an upgrade from the original VS 4c was called for, but in the light of some comments here, perhaps it merits HVS 4c. I'll have another look