/ Sport Climbing in Snowdonia

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Tomagone - on 02 Dec 2012
Hi
Me and a mate are looking to go climbing in Snowdonia next summer but not sure which is the best part to go to, I've been to the area before paddling but not climbing. I climb 5c -6b and he climbs 5's, I've been climbing on and off for years and are happy leading and stuff and have many quick draws but I don't really want to shell out for nuts and cams e.c.t. Oh, one more thing, we don't drive so access will be a problem but we are happy to walk. We'll be camping, not sure were though at the moment.
If any one could suggest places to climb or any thing could help it would be really appreciated.
Cheers
T
MikeLell - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Tomagone: The Llanberis Slate Quarries are fairly easy access on public transport from Bangor. Get bus to Deiniolen. As far as I know, not much other sport venues within Snowdonia itself, but lots a bit further east along the North Coast (which should be easy to get to without a car). Look for the A55 guidebook.
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The Ivanator - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Tomagone: Plenty of decent Sport to be had on the Llanberis Slate. The area known as Australia has lots of lines in the F5 - F6b range. Get the Ground Up guide: http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=5046
A little further East the Limestone at Trevor Rocks near Llangollen has lots in the requested grades too http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=427 there is a Rockfax guide that covers these climbs http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/clwyd-limestone-2005/
Along the A55 there are more Limestone sport options, although most of these crags are better for higher grades. Guidebook for these: http://www.pesdapress.com/Land-Guidebooks/c1_25/p36/A55-Sport-Climbs/product_info.html
Not sure what the best options are camping wise that put you within walking range of these, but there are certainly sites near Llangollen and Llanberis. The best climbing in the area is of course the Trad, my advice would be to scrimp, save, beg, borrow and piece together a Trad Rack - you've got till next summer so be resourceful.

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