/ NEWS: La Sportiva Legends Only 2012

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UKC News - on 02 Dec 2012
Sean McColl, winner of the La Sportiva Legends Only 2012, 4 kbThis year's La Sportiva Legends Only at Klättercentret in Stockholm turned out even bigger and better than last year's, with Canadian Sean McColl sealing the deal by doing the fifth and last problem exactly when he had to to beat Dmitry Sharafutdinov into second spot.
Legends only is an "after...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67645
imagist - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News:
For me the link to watch it on SVTPlay says this -

Videon är inte tillgänglig.

Det kan finnas flera olika skäl till att du inte kan se videon.
På vår testsida kan du prova om du kan se vår testvideo:

SVT Play testsida

and leads to a cartoon.
Björn Pohl - UKC - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to imagist: Yes, I've heard there is a problems, but I'll make sure they solve it as soon as possible. It also says it's available all over the world, so it's only a case of someone having to press a button...
Björn Pohl - UKC - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: They now say it should be solved in an hour or so.
Quarryboy - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News:

What happened with Adam Ondra?
Daniel Heath - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Quarryboy:

He's so weak - only good for long ladder-style sport routes.


:P
clgladiator - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
online footage still isnt sorted
NOG - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to clgladiator: Any more news on this? still doesn't seem to be working?
Björn Pohl - UKC - on 02 Dec 2012
In reply to NOG: They said they were working on it and that it would be fixed soon.
Franz the Stampede - on 02 Dec 2012
Fantastic show! Very good problems, extremely spectacular moves (I particularly loved the first and the third ones).

It was good to see people travelling to Stockholm for the weekend mainly to see the competition (and I'm not talking about myself!), competition climbers do deserve more attention.

: )
Marc Germani on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: if you want this to be watched world wide, why you don't bring English commentators? who knows Swedish?!! besides swedish people
DaveInPortwood - on 03 Dec 2012
kudos to Shauna for setting novel and imaginative problems. Really enjoyed watching this comp
Marc Germani on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News: this competition is not like WC style, they tried the boulders yesterday. so why to keep the same ranking system??? Dmitry proved to be the only one able to do the 4th boulder Dyno... he sliped on the first boulder...

Rules must be set in a way to prove who's the best and strongest. not the luckiest

if they don't want to count the total moves made, at least they must consider the Tops+Bonus

What do you mean by bouldering is only for toping out?if a guy comes and did 3 more bonuses than all others, and topped similar as another guy, but with more attempts, the other guy wins? he's weaker... he did less moves...

and back to the Legends.. who knows how many attempts Sean had the day before on the first boulder? ... that's why i am saying the ranking system is just not accurate, just like the Swedish commentators, we got nothing from it.

also, Dmitry was the only one who flashed 3 boulders
Sean flashed 2 ..come on, it's not that hard to see the faultiness of the system

They should count the Bonuses anyway
AKD - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News: Totally agree with Marc.
The rules of attempts has a logic which is inconsistent with trying the boulders the day before and having bonuses (which end up counting less than the number of attempts anyway).

In sum, Dima was the best one in the comp for me, but that's just my opinion.
Franz the Stampede - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Marc Germani:

1 - The pre-working session might allow for a different scoring system, but calling the current one something that makes "the luckiest guy" win is a complete exageration.

2 - Dima (whom I'm a big fan of) was well aware of the rules and of the importance of each attempt. Especially since he must have surely topped the first boulder in practice, he only has himself to blame for the many attempts on Saturday. And his reaction showed.

3 - If the Swedish television puts the money to broadcast the event, they can comment it in whichever bloody language they want. If your country is so amazing and so into climbing, next time they could send their own live broadcast team to follow and comment on the event? Also, the broadcast of the event was fairly priced at ZERO, so don't look the gift horse in the mouth...
Jonas Wiklund - on 03 Dec 2012
In reply to Marc Germani:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC) who knows Swedish?!! besides swedish people

Norwegians, Danish and quite a few Finns.
Franz the Stampede - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Jonas Wiklund:

True that. Swedish is the most understood language in Northern Europe. The Finns study it as school, Danes and Norwegian don't even have to to be able to grasp about 95% of it...
Flashman - on 04 Dec 2012
Adam Ondra: Ah, but what has he done on plastic?
In reply to Franz the Stampede:
> The Finns study it as school,

The law was changed a few years back so they don't have to anymore. Most Finns do have some passive knowledge of Swedish thinking of my Finnish climbing mates I suspect the majority would prefer commentary in English for such an event just because they are more likely to know climbing terms in English than Swedish. My Finnish wife got quite annoyed with me asking her to translate descriptions in the Bohuslän guide for me this summer for that reason! :)

But, hey, this thing was filmed for Swedish TV so it's not surprising it was in Swedish.
Jiduvah - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Franz the Stampede: I have to think you are wrong. The UK is part of Northern Europe. Considering that the uk makes up 62,000,000 of the 99,000,000 in Northern Europe, your point makes no sense. Also the fact that the Scandinavians speak and understand English to an incredible level. Also I can't imagine Ireland, Latvia, Lithuania or Estonia to have a particularly good knowledge of Sweedish
Franz the Stampede - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to Jiduvah:

Northern Europe is, by common use, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Iceland and Finland.

Any business/organisation/whatever that refers to Northern Europe or "the Nordics" means those countries. The UK and Ireland are not part of it, same goes for the Baltic republics. It's not just a matter of anything north of Calais...
In reply to Franz the Stampede:

> Northern Europe is, by common use, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Iceland and Finland.

Not that it really matters but as a Northern European (British) political scientist who has live for a long time in Norden, although technically not Scandinavia (Finland) I would strongly disagree with that. I don't think there is a particularly common meaning for "Northern Europe", if you hear talk of "the Northern European economies" that normally includes Germany, Benelux, UK/Ire, and the Nordics. Some historically minded political scientists might say "Northern Europe" is non-Catholic Europe (France and Germany are both seen as being border states in that sense between North and South.

Are you thinking of "Norden"? If so it's not a term most English speakers know, using instead "the Nordic Countries".
Jonas Wiklund - on 04 Dec 2012
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Franz the Stampede)
>
> [...]
>
> Are you thinking of "Norden"? If so it's not a term most English speakers know, using instead "the Nordic Countries".

English speakers surely use "Scandinavia"? (I don't mind, I totally accept that "Scandinavia" and "Skandinavien" are congates but with different meaning.)
In reply to Jonas Wiklund:

> English speakers surely use "Scandinavia"? (I don't mind, I totally accept that "Scandinavia" and "Skandinavien" are congates but with different meaning.)

Often, but the geographical pedants like to explain that excludes Iceland and possibly Denmark and Finland too!
Blue Straggler - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to Jonas Wiklund:
> (In reply to TobyA)
> [...]
>
> English speakers surely use "Scandinavia"?

As an innocent unbiased "English speaker" with no agenda here, I can say that we use both. Scandinavia is more common, "Nordic countries" tends to be used by people who want or need to show(*) that they know that "Scandinavia" can be interpreted in different ways and that "Nordic countries" is more encompassing.

* I don't mean that in an insulting way, though I can see that it could look that way.
jedster1111 - on 05 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News: Were they all made to wear la sportiva shoes? Or are solutions that good? :D
Atmos on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News:

The competition was nice, and I like the way the format is different (I.E. "after work").

Keep in mind it is not a true competition however, as it is invite only, and only among "la sportiva" sponsored athletes, mostly for show (And a good one it was).
I'm not even too sure that Jakob or Adam would have chosen to participate in a bouldering event on themselves (after all, they didn't do so at the world championship).

The discussion here is a sad reminder of the sense of entitlement native English speakers seem to get about language. Is it really shocking that televisions in other countries are shooting their broadcasts in their native language ? Really ?

Well, I don't speak swedish, I'm not a native English speaker, and I'm glad I could see the whole event in HD VOD for free.
In reply to Atmos:

> The discussion here is a sad reminder of the sense of entitlement native English speakers seem to get about language. Is it really shocking that televisions in other countries are shooting their broadcasts in their native language ? Really ?

The guy who raised the whole point about the language I think is Lebanese, i.e. not a native English speaker. Plus I think he didn't realise that it was filmed for Swedish TV and webcast just as an 'extra' for every one else to enjoy. I think he thought it was just a webcast for climbers to watch.

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