UKC

Has anyone led this? If so, did you keep left of the arete the whole way up or did you use a few holds just right of and straddle the arete in various places?

It's a perverse and somewhat brutal number, albeit quite intriguing...

In reply to Cusco:
Hey Gringo....
I've done said route...can't remember much though. Seem to remember being on the right side quite high up and doing a hardish move into the crux of Amex. I think it's super.

Jb.

In reply to Cusco:
Perverse yes, brutal?

In reply to Cusco:

Who cares ,its a s**t eliminate line.Too far left and you're climbing AMEX,too far right and you're in COCYTUS.It's badly bolted , too dangerous to lead and far too hard for one as weak as you !

In reply to Cusco

Hi jb. Thanks for that which makes sense and is what I was doing; only I found the move to the jug on amex quite ok with a great undercut, high step on the arete and rockover. It was the start and middle that was proving more taxing. Hope alls well and you'll be on the crags soon.

Madbaza. Less mass helps with the lack if strength! Are you going to man up and not pre clip the first on more steam?! Same time same place for some more ansteys craziness?

In reply to Cusco:
I value my ankles too highly to not pre-clip either routes first bolt.weekend of the 15th is my next opportunity to get back down to ansteys unless you fancy taking tommorow or next tuesday off work.

In reply to Cusco:

That is the question.

In reply to quadmyre:

Well if that is the question.....

Then this is the answer.

In reply to Cusco:

Yes. Left of the arete the whole way as far as I remember, but it was a while ago.

jcm