/ Tying in

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pff - on 07 Dec 2012
What knot do you use if using a single rope in double style? Alpine butterfly, double figure of eight, Tie in to harness/ use a Krab?
ripper - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to pff: hopefully someone'll be along soon who understands what you mean by a single rope in double style...
Oceanrower - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to ripper: I'm guessing tying into the middle of a single rope to use as a double. Not 100% sure though.
Ava Adore - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to pff:

If you mean a single rope doubled, bowline or figure of eight
Oceanrower - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to Oceanrower: i'm also guessing that means a figure of eight on the bight. I'd love to see how you do that directly into the harness!
EeeByGum - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to pff: I either use a figure of 8 (quick and I know how to do it) or use a rather unconventional method of passing the doubled over rope through my harness, stepping through the hole and then lifting the loop over my head to create a larks foot.
deepsoup - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to Oceanrower:
> I'm guessing tying into the middle of a single rope to use as a double. Not 100% sure though.

I'm sure you're right.

To the op: It varies, but I most often tie in with a bowline on the bight (stepping through the loop like a skipping rope).
jkarran - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to pff:

> What knot do you use if using a single rope in double style? Alpine butterfly, double figure of eight, Tie in to harness/ use a Krab?

Leading I tie in to both ends with fig8s. Seconding I generally just larksfoot the midpoint of the rope to my belay loop. When I occasionally want to avoid the larksfoot (it can be awkward to untie) I re-thread an overhand on the bight (bulky) or clip into a fig8 on the bight.

None of those are the 'best' solution but they all work for me and I'm happy with them.
jk
alooker - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to pff: I tie into the 'loose' ends as normal, as a second I tie a bowline or a fig 8 on the bight clipped in with two opposed screwgates to temper my paranoia
pff - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to pff:
yep, what i was angling towards , was if using my single 10mm rope like a pair of ropes. Whether to tie in to the middle of the rope or to the ends.
Ava Adore - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to pff:

It doesn't matter - your second will have to do one and you the other.
ripper - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to pff: well I'm guessing someone would have to tie in to both the ends and the middle, wouldn't they? I'd suggest the leader should tie in to the two ends, as normal, and the second to the middle of the rope using whichever method listed above you/they feel most confident with. Personally, I'd be happy with a fig 8 on a bight and a single screwgate, but I know some people prefer two opposing screwgates.
Mike Mead - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to Oceanrower:
> [] guessing that means a figure of eight on the bight. I'd love to see how you do that directly into the harness!

Start with a big bight and step through it. Then adjust. Simples!
wivanov - on 07 Dec 2012
pff - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to pff: Thanks for all the tips. Especially the previous thread.
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The Ex-Engineer - on 07 Dec 2012
In reply to pff: FWIW, last time I counted there were at least 9 distinct ways of tying in and I'm sure that still isn't definitive:

- larksfoot the rope around your harness (aka Chris Tan death knot)
- rethreaded fig-8 on bight with stopper knot
- rethreaded fig-8 on bight with long tail
- rethreaded fig-8 on bight with krab through loop
- rethreaded overhand on bight with stopper knot
- rethreaded overhand on bight with krab through loop
- bowline on bight with stopper knot
- bowline on bight with krab through loop
- inline overhand on bight passed back through with single stopper knot and krab through loop

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