/ NEWS: VIDEO: Västervik Bouldering

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UKC News - on 18 Dec 2012
Invited boulderers at Fallataket, Västervik, 5 kbRight now, the boulders around Västervik are covered by a couple of feet of snow, but in September this year things looked very different. The city of Västervik had invited a bunch of strong international boulderers for the second annual Västervik Boulder Meet.
This time they had also invited film...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67683
Jackwd - on 18 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News: There're so many Art of Flight references in this film. Looks great!
krank - on 18 Dec 2012
26:35 traversi blowtorching, what a length.
In reply to krank: hadn't someone already said that on this thread and then it dissappeared?! Or is there another Västervik thread in which the blow torching came up?

I'm sure it's not a brilliant idea, although I suspect if Swedish granite is much like Finnish granite, it might not be such a terrible thing.
krank - on 19 Dec 2012
In reply to TobyA:

Im not sure if its been said before.

im not to fussed what rock its on, it sets a bad example for people who dont know better. If its local practice thats fine but dont put it in a video.
willackers - on 19 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News:
You've posted a video of somebody blowtorching a boulder problem to dry it out! Are you serious? UKC should pull this video. Ridiculous.
In reply to willackers: So what does it do to the holds then, and is damage possible on all rock types or just some? I remember back in the 90s people using blow torches (or simply camping stoves) to dry holds on routes.
willackers - on 20 Dec 2012
In reply to TobyA: Isn't it obvious what blowtorching does to holds? Revelations at Raven Tor is a good example of what damage it can cause. I don't care what rock type it is in that video, it's setting a bad example to people who don't know any better. Thousands of people watch videos that are posted on UKC.
Robert Durran - on 20 Dec 2012
In reply to willackers:
> (In reply to TobyA) Isn't it obvious what blowtorching does to holds?

No.
In reply to willackers:
> Isn't it obvious what blowtorching does to holds?

Well I could take a guess but I'm not certain. At Västervik maybe it is normal? - I don't know, but do you either? I would have thought yearly frost damage would be a lot more significant than a few seconds of flame.

> Revelations at Raven Tor is a good example of what damage it can cause.

Never been to that crag, so what happened? As so often with British climbing culture we not getting very far away from the Peak District...

> I don't care what rock type it is in that video, it's setting a bad example to people who don't know any better.

But surely that like saying showing sport climbing videos sets a bad example to people who don't know that not all routes are bolted, or continental mixed climbing videos set a bad example for people who think that would be acceptable Scottish conditions. You can't base everything on what the most stupid person watching might think.

> Thousands of people watch videos that are posted on UKC.

And I would imagine 999 out of thousand know that Västervik and Raven Tor are not the same place. I think really the far more important question is whether the Swedish locals are pissed off with him using a blow torch.

cha1n on 20 Dec 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Someone posted a link to this video on UK Bouldering; http://www.vimeo.com/35439332# (skip to 1:16)

The blowtorch definitely seems to be doing damage...
mkean - on 20 Dec 2012
In reply to cha1n:
The blowtorch definitely seems to be doing damage...

In all fairness there is a slight difference between flashing a torch over a hold and attempting to super heat it! I would suggest that rapidly heating up cold wet rock was a bad idea but using that video as proof isn't that conclusive :-)


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