> (In reply to Bulls Crack)
> [...]
>
> In my experience they are as arbitrary as the grading at most indoor walls. I agree they should be consistent but I haven't found that.
> I do find that as the grades go up they tend to get slightly more accurate.
> Generally I would say that grades at walls are getting harder. Outside always feels easier to me. This is a personal opinion of course but walls tend to make the usual mistake of getting some guy who climbs 9c to set a 5 when anything under about 7b is going to feel about grade 5, that is if you climb that hard...
> The secret of grading is to ask people who climb at whatever grade is being set to check it. It's that simple. Liam, take note.
> I feel better now. Rant over !
In reply to I like climbing
Agreed.
I do think Biscuit Factory is the closest to being consistent in London though.
I have climbed there a lot and though I have got a bit bored with following their circuits,when I use them they seem spot on to me.
My feeling is some route/problem setters get lazy sometimes about setting easier problems(elitist as well as work pressure reasons?) and yes climbing walls in London need to watch this I think.
The standards set by the biscuit factory are the way forward trying to get 5-6 route setters passing through(of different abilities)setting their different styles seemingly with little ego involved.
Other climbing walls in London should take note,sure the grade bandwidth will vary from soft to hard for the grade but variety of styles I think overrides this in priority.
Yup just because climber 'A' climbs '8 or 9' something it does not mean they have the most imaginative climbing move 'vocab'for ALL grades.
Re.climbing indoors versus outdoors.My view is in London the majority of climbers have no (or not very much) outdoor experience hence the nature of alot of the easier grades...possibly a little dumbed down.Again I think the Biscuit Factory mainly have set a new standard of interesting climbing at say the V1 to V3 level(English 5c to hard 6a in old language)
Mile end often does this as well but they do not have as many prob setters possibly.
The point about route checking I think is spot on.