/ An Caisteal / Sgurr a' Bhairnich

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Kevin Woods - on 27 Dec 2012
Looking for a bit of info on this section of the Cuillin. Any abseiling around about these two peaks. I've read about a couple of gaps you gotta jump across but not sure about the technical difficulty of the section.

And also anyone know if there's an abseil off the main Bidein Druim peak northward? Cheers.
Kevin Woods - on 27 Dec 2012
In reply to Kevin Woods: Maybe I should have titled this thread Cuillin.
Andy Moles - on 28 Dec 2012
In reply to Kevin Woods:

I think on both An Caisteal and Bidein there are short sections which can either be abseiled or downclimbed at exposed VD or thereabouts. As far as I know they're not easily avoidable, unless you skirt the tops entirely. But I'm sure someone more experienced will be along with more details.
AB - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Kevin Woods:
> Looking for a bit of info on this section of the Cuillin. Any abseiling around about these two peaks. I've read about a couple of gaps you gotta jump across but not sure about the technical difficulty of the section.
>

The 3 gaps are absolutely fine, just a bit off leaping across and not looking down.

We abseiled down the north ridge of An Casteal (south-north traverse), mod in skye scrambles.
I think I probably should have downclimbed it and don't think it would be any worse than down climbing the mod off Thearlaich, but was a bit frazzled by this point.

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Mike Lates - on 30 Dec 2012
In reply to Kevin Woods:
> And also anyone know if there's an abseil off the main Bidein Druim peak northward? No, Scramble down all slightly right of the crest. Poss at grade 1 but often easiest route is missed.
All of An Caisteal is thought provoking & scary in the wet as it is predominantly basalt. 2nd gap is intiidating & downward. Poss scramble down 5m R of crest. The meat is the descent to Tainilear. Avoid the Belly Crawl & abseil by heading west 15m south of the summit to the red shoulder. Below here sticking to the crest is intimidating but gives the best rock & least grease. At final drop it's standard to scramble down the break left (west) then back right (east) on the crevassed break.
The final 6m is very off-balance using a combo of polished edges & a sharp-edged but unpromising flake for balance while your feet do the work. This whole final section is abseiled (18m+) by a high % of folk strangely enough;)
Bhairnich has no abseils and comparatively few worries; in fact the whole rise to BnF is quite a good place to finally rest the nerves for the 1st time since An Dorus.



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