/ dovestones quarry winter conditions query
Not sure the turf will be frozen just yet but the pure snowed up rock lines will be fine.
Planning on running up there later today so will update on what it looks like from afar.
This is how it looked yesterday after the brief heavy snow shower, quite a bit of snow went during the afternoon.
Pondering the same from my base in the South Pennines. Wondering if something at Grade I/II can be engineered. Also considering the Wilderness Gullys for an early morning ascent (I've a lunch date back home!!) Anyone else?
Good day out is to head up central gully in the main quarry (I or II depending on snow build up) then walk along the top of the moor until your opposite wilderness gully drop down to bottom of gully, head up it, then along moor again to top of wimberry and drop back to car park.
By Saturday if the forecasted temps stay as hey are wilderness will probably be a bit of fun.
I am always surprised how long it takes turf on crags (rather than on the tops) to freeze solid enough to climb safely, although it would apepar that this doesnt stop people waiting nowadays.
there are if your happy to swerve around left to right a bit. last time i was up there (about 2 yrs ago) we just picked the rockiest looking line we could see.
if you read my original post i did say that i do not think the turf will be frozen.
Most amusing was 'it's been snowing in sheffield for three hours now, will anything be in' either keen or unwise to how winter routes form, you decide....
Thanks very much for the info. Think we gonna give it a miss up there, a bit optimistic. Probably head to Roaches for some bouldering instead!
There's only one way to find out.....go have a look .... I will be!
I'm a bit worried that the omission of many routes in the quarries in OTM because of financial constraints, and a lack of interest from modern climbers who aren't attracted to a crag with a relatively high degree of objective danger, will result in people visiting the crag and attacking perfectly good summer routes as winter climbs, even though they are not in proper winter condition. There are some cracking routes in the quarries and I would hate to see them treated with any less respect than anything on Stanage Popular End.
Yes, that was an abortive attempt by two of us. As I said earlier, there's only one way to find out..
We backed off half-way up as the turf was not fully frozen to the rock. The route was doable ... but the turf would have ended up at the bottom. As not to strip the route we left it for better conditions.
The problem is that the turf was not wet enough when it froze ... quite surprising when you think of all the rain which came before, although the quarry is well drained and dries in the SW winds.
Anyway, my advice would be to leave the routes until the conditions improve (snow,bit of thaw, freeze would do it).
Really? You would actually climb there in the summer?
Yes in the lower quarry there are some excellent routes, Bob Hope for example, but the upper quarry is IMO a bit of a death trap. You only need look at titans groove and surrounding area to see that plus rockfall that has occured up around dovestones edge.
I have climbed there extensively in the summer ( although it was many summers ago, when Initiation Groove was a bog standard VS). Some of the very best routes there were the ones just to the left of Titan's. I hope they are still there.
On that note I'm having a gander Sunday probably, the deep freeze looks well set on for the weekend.
But please do respect the place ... if the turf is not in we all need to remember that others may wish to do it when conditions are better. Stripping the turf when it is not frozen will diminish the route for all.
Check it out .... then make a judgement as to whether to keep going!
Chis Guest & Ian Heg also did a new route on Sat, straightening out "Tortoise and the Hare" called Peakaboo. at V,6. We had a foot od snow overnight, so will be even better now.......
Anyone been up Dovestones Quarry this week? How are conditions?
I haven't climbed in it this year, but this is how it looked yesterday.
Looking at forecast tomorrow morning could be your last chance for while. Overnight snow with a low of -1 but then above freezing Saturday and 6 degrees on Sunday. Pants.
Off this evening!
Must have been entertaining last night :-)
Snow turned to rain about 22.00, everything is slushy now.
We went today and everything was melting rapidly. If the temps dip tonight (not forecast to) then the central gully might go tomorrow but the rest is gone for this freeze now.
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