/ Planning a UK Tour

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antigravity1989 - on 17 Jan 2013
Hi guys, a few friends and I are planning a UK tour around Easter, going to road-trip around the UK visiting all the coolest spots to climb, we all climb trad, sport and bouldering so are psyched for any type of crag. Has anyone done this who would like to share their destinations including the area, rock-type and climbing style?

Or is there a crag near you that you think we need to come play on? We're all at Sheffield Hallam Uni so probably going to kick-off from Sheffield. Any advice would be welcome!
Kevin Woods - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to antigravity1989: Alright. Not done it myself but maybe I can offer some Scottish suggestions as that's what I'm familiar with.

One of the Buachaille classics if it's in summer condition. 50/50.

Dunkeld - sport and trad. Trad leans toward the nails end, as does the sport come to think of it.

All the Ullapool crags but can't offer any specifics as haven't done them. Reiff, Ardmair come to mind..? While your up there get a sea stack at VS with the Old Man of Stoer. And for bouldering; Torridon Celtic Jumble comes to mind (Malc's Arete, what a line).

To get on top of the craziest range anywhere + get a climb in, do the Inn Pinn on the Cuillin.

Dumbarton Rock. Not as bad as some make out regarding neds and all that. Hard, really high quality bouldering. The trad and sport lines are jaw dropping.

Glen Nevis ...I'msure I've missed hundreds of others!
The Ex-Engineer - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to antigravity1989: Basically, you've got two distinct options head North or head South. It makes no sense to climb in locations close enough for easy weekend trips and in these financially constrained times it makes little sense to try and do both both Scotland and Cornwall.

Given the time of year I'd look at heading South. That means you are looking at a sweeping arc covering:
Pembroke
Gower
Wye Valley
Avon Gorge
Swanage
Portland
Jersey/Guernsey (if you are feeling flush)
Dartmoor
South Devon (Berry Head, Chudleigh, Ansteys Cove)
North Devon (Baggy Point)
Culm Coast (Lower Sharpnose, Blackchurch)
West Penwith (Bosigran, Sennen, Chair Ladder etc.)

Buy, borrow or steal a copy of Rockfax West Country Climbs and I am certain that will give you enough inspiration to get your planning started.
aretherenoneleft on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to antigravity1989: Personally id start off at stanage and work my way round the peak district from east to west, finishing around roaches and churnet. Reckon that should do you for a couple of weeks.
aretherenoneleft on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to antigravity1989: No where else is really worth travelling to to be honest.
climbingpixie - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to antigravity1989:

I'd agree with the ex-engineer, unless it's looking like you'll be very lucky with the weather the South West is probably your safest bet. I had 10 days down just in Cornwall and Devon a couple of years ago and there was plenty to keep us going (we climbed at sharpnose, blackchurch, carn gowla, kenidjack, bosigran, chair ladder and the dewerstone) but if we'd been less lazy about packing tents up and driving we could have covered a lot more ground. One thing to beware of is travelling around Cornwall can be a nightmare - best to pack up and move between campsites at night to avoid the family holiday traffic.

Best thing to do is be flexible and just decide closer to the time based on weather and tides.
Enty - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to aretherenoneleft:

They live in Sheffield - how adventurous ;-)

A trip like this needs some classic rock ticks. I'd do this:

Cornwall - Bosi / Sennen.
Sharpnose
Pembroke
Llanberis / Tremadoc
Anglesey - finish the trip with an ascent of DOWH.

E
alasdair19 on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to antigravity1989: agree with ex engineer if Scotland is looking good then go its just amazing. Finally made it to pembroke last year and it really is as good as everyone says. Though its allmost all trad. After that Avon gorge may under whelm so head down deep.sw. the rock fax guide is great though the cc select might be out by then too
Skyfall - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to Enty:


> Cornwall - Bosi / Sennen.
> Sharpnose
> Pembroke
> Llanberis / Tremadoc
> Anglesey - finish the trip with an ascent of DOWH.

Agreed - could throw in the Gower on the way up to Pembroke, though more for the beaches than the climbing per se. And the supposed 'best' VS in the country (as I think Scavenger was voted some moons ago).
Jon Stewart - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to aretherenoneleft)
>
> They live in Sheffield - how adventurous ;-)
>
> A trip like this needs some classic rock ticks. I'd do this:
>
> Cornwall - Bosi / Sennen.
> Sharpnose
> Pembroke
> Llanberis / Tremadoc
> Anglesey - finish the trip with an ascent of DOWH.
>
> E

^^This.

For me, unmissable crags in the UK are:

Great Zawn, Bosigran
Sharpnose
Mother Careys
Carreg y Barcud
Cloggy (failing that, Cromlech)
Gogarth Main Cliff
Castel Helen/Yellow Wall
Stanage
The Roaches/Hen Cloud
Scafell (failing that, Gimmer)
(Don't know the first half of Scotland, it always rains)
Sron Na Ciche
Diabaig
Reiff
Sheigra
(Mountain crags that are never in condition, plus inaccessible islands I've never been to)

(What no mediocre inland limestone? No.)

And for a single trip at Easter, you'd be better starting at the bottom.



Jim C - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to antigravity1989:
Dumbarton Rock (and Castle) is popular, near to me, it has attracted world class climbers like Dave Mcleod and Sonny Trotter , and also has plenty of bouldering problems.

It is, however, right on the River Clyde, and depending on the wind it can be a bit exposed.
shantaram - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to antigravity1989: I'm guessing if you're students you'll have a months break at Easter. Some suggestions:

Road trip 1 - 2 weeks in N.Wales Snowdonia and Anglesy and maybe A55 sport climbing crags followed by 2 weeks in South Wales - Pembroke with a bit of Gower thrown in. So much variety - sea cliffs, mountain crags, bouldering, sport, single pitch on limestone, volcanic, slate, quartzite. Soemthing for everyone.

Road trip 2 - South West England. Loads to get stuck into on the north and south coasts of Deven and Cornwall, and if there's not enough there then pop over to Dorset. Mainly sea cliff climbing.

Road trip 3 - weather dependent at Easter, but would be my first choice if it is. The west coast of Scotland and islands - Arran, Skye, Diabeg, Torridon, Old Man of Stoer, Etive slabs, Glencoe. Endless choice without the crowds. Good mixture of sea cliffs, mountain crags, sea stacks, single pitch and bouldering. Not so much sport climbing.

If you can I'd try and minimise the driving by choosing a region of the UK to focus on, so you spend less time in the car and more time on the rock.

Traditionally Easter has been the time to head to the sea cliffs of SW Wales and SW England and Anglesey as they get the better weather and dry quickly. However, in the last few years the best weather for some of the high mountain crags has been in March and April and one of the only periods when the north facing high mountain crags in the UK have been dry.
Kevin Woods - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to Jim C:
> (In reply to antigravity1989)
>
> It is, however, right on the River Clyde, and depending on the wind it can be a bit exposed.

Perfect imo, helps everything dry.
Enty - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to antigravity1989:


mmmmmm........Dumby Rock included in a UK road trip???

E
aretherenoneleft on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to shantaram: I wish we had a month, but most of us only have 2 weeks and for the first week we're all in Ireland bouldering.
shantaram - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to aretherenoneleft: You're confusing me? Are you in the OP's road trip team? If so 1 week is not a whole heap of time for a UK road trip. Maybe just head to North Wales for 1 week after your Ireland trip. I guess you'll be coming back via the Dublin Holyhead ferry. Loads of varied climbing in that area to keep you all happy. Maybe also check out Fairhead while you're over in Ireland. It's a top class venue.
aretherenoneleft on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to shantaram: Yes i am sorry to cause confusion, was just trying to annoy the OP. One of our group lives not far from fairhead so thats where we'll be based in ireland.
James Oswald - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:
^ Agree
James Oswald - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to antigravity1989:

If you are lucky with the weather just go to Scotland. Start at the top and drive down...

Old Man of Hoy (time consuming, optional adventure)
Sarclett
Reiff
Stac Poldubh (Sp?)
Diabaig
Gairloch
Skye - Neist and Kilt Rock


If not go to the South West, Pembroke etc..
Jon Stewart - on 17 Jan 2013
In reply to James Oswald:
> (In reply to antigravity1989)
>

> Stac Poldubh (Sp?)

Stac Pollaidh (Polly) I think. I had a brilliant day up there, but I also think that unless either Jack The Ripper or those amazing looking E4s are of interest, there are surprisingly few routes considering the enormous quantity of rock.
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