/ What tricam for Master's Edge and London Wall ?

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MartinPL - on 01 Feb 2013
Hi

I'm wondering what size of tricam is fitting to the hole on Master's Edge and to the two holes in horizontal crack just above the first crux on London Wall. Before I'll lead it, I need to know and need to buy this tricam :). Thanks for the answer,

M
EeeByGum - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to MartinPL: Just boulder up and see for yourself! :-)
jimjimjim on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to MartinPL: if you buy it at the shop in hathersage i'm sure they'll know....i don't. ;)
ERH - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to MartinPL:

not sure about the tricam, but a No.8 nut doubled back works I think - you can check and practice on all the shot holes round the corner.
Craig McMahon - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to MartinPL:

Its a number 10 nut doubled backwards. I'm sure it is. But just check as per above with the other shot holes. Its bomber.
Coel Hellier - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to the thread:

Of course this "nut doubled back" technique doesn't work so well with the modern fashion for Rocks to be on wire, not on rope.
Goucho on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to MartinPL: It's a Number 3 tricam isn't it?, and an Alien?

As for LW, well, if you're good enough to do Masters, the gear on LW would be pretty irrelevant I would have thought?
zerog on 01 Feb 2013
I haven't climbed it myself but I was wandering around the bottom of Millstone and somebody asked me if I was climbing Master's Edge. I said no, why? He pointed at my harness and said: you've got the right tricam...

T'was the pink; it's always the pink: http://bit.ly/e2h0uo
deacondeacon - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to zerog: except that it's not. Its a 2.5 or a number 5 metolius cam.
edinburgh_man on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to MartinPL:


I haven't seen it myself, but I've been told it's a Tricam 2.5.

Out of interest how did you manage to flash The Hunter House Road Toad at Milstone, after you top roped it a month previously?
Big Jim The Climber - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to MartinPL: It was the one one the blue tape, can't remember what size that it is though.
deacondeacon - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to Big Jim The Climber: The 2.5 and the 3 are both on blue tape, the 2.5 is a better fit.
danm - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to MartinPL:

I lent my mate Dan a Metolius MasterCam 5 for Masters Edge, he said it fitted perfectly, which was just as well as he took the ride, twice I think.
Jim Gayler - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to MartinPL:

2.5 blue tricam - size 5 black metolius. Enjoy!
MartinPL - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to 7bforever: Thanks for all answers :)

Out of interest how did you manage to flash The Hunter House Road Toad at Milstone, after you top roped it a month previously?


It must be my misundestanding, english is not my first language. I didn't do it in flash. Tried to do it top rope in one day, then few weeks later in another day (few tries) and then in another day tried to do it top rope but couldn't do it, so tried to lead but fell off, so tried to lead it again and I lead this route :) of course after first try that day, left 2 quickdraws in pitons, so it's rather sport style than trad, but route is very very nice and safe. As you see I didn't spend a month on a route, but of course it wasn't a flash. Sorry, i thought it was beta style (never heard about this style outside uk but had to choose a style in log, I thought that this is it) mea culpa

regards
M
kingholmesy - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to Coel Hellier:
> (In reply to the thread)
>
> Of course this "nut doubled back" technique doesn't work so well with the modern fashion for Rocks to be on wire, not on rope.

Actually, it works pretty well with rocks on wire, albeit that the wires end up pretty bent as a result.

I used a couple of size 10s and maybe a size 11 (all on wire) on Jealous Pensioner and they seemed pretty bomber.
kingholmesy - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to kingholmesy:

... usual disclaimer of course - try at ground level and make your own judgment!
deacondeacon - on 01 Feb 2013
In reply to MartinPL:
Hi mate, no biggie as it's your own logbook so doesn't really matter what you put in it but if you logged it as lead clean with practice it would show an RP for redpoint.
Good luck with Masters Edge.
MartinPL - on 02 Feb 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:

ok, sorry for that. Next time i'll check every single meaning. Besides, this site is not 8a.nu where you have points for ascents and styles, I treated it as a my own logbook, to know what I climbed and how (that's why description is next to every ascent in comments).
deacondeacon - on 02 Feb 2013
In reply to MartinPL: I think you misunderstood me, I was just explaining how you could log your climb correctly if you wanted to. You certainly don't have to and no one will care either way.
I'm pretty sure i've got mistakes in my logbook too.
Like I said good luck with Masters Edge.
Peace
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