/ Sacrificial lanyard attachments?
On the subject of lanyards, I've noticed a huge reduction in faff/tangles since I started attaching them to my abseil loop with a snaplink rather than having them hard-locked into my harness. This means that I can quickly unclip the axes rather than the runner if I get in a tangle! Also I can get them away from me when I want to belay. Personally I'd recommend trying this.
And forget the spinner and use real biners (eg. DMM Phantom screwgate for the harness and phntoms for tools).
Been using grivel lanyard for a few years and although it states not for climbing, IMHO there is no way it will fail if you slip and land on it. So adding cord into the system has no benefit, it just introduces a weakness.
Would you not need two krabs, one for each axe, otherwise unclipping wouldn't work?
I wish they wouldn't, I would rather have some rated to hold a fall (any manufacturers out there???)
> On the subject of lanyards, I've noticed a huge reduction in faff/tangles since I started attaching them to my abseil loop with a snaplink rather than having them hard-locked into my harness.
2nd this, have been doing it for years with a clipper leash attachment to join the spring leash to the axes which is tidy but releasable too.
Possibly, I guess it depends where you are relative to the gear.
Although they're not rated for a fall, it appears that sometimes they hold and sometimes they don't. Anyone got any anecdotal evidence about what sort of fall will break them, or for that matter which is stronger between Grivel and BD?
The two small carabiners have a maximum resistance of 750kg and must never be used instead of normal carabiners when climbing or belaying."
For BD, see http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb//qc-lab-how-strong-is-the-spinner-leash
> I wish they wouldn't, I would rather have some rated to hold a fall (any manufacturers out there???)
A via ferrata set ;-)
I have tested my leashes before. I got pumped out and slipped off my axes on plumb vertical ice. I dropped off and the leashes held me. I have a simple grivel spring leash, larks foot onto belay loop on harness and nano wire gate (very stiff gate and small) onto each axe (viper has suitable hole to clip direct).
I thought most leash set ups were rated to 200N, I am not sure if the spinner is weaker than the others.
Mine held me fine (80kg) and I just yarded back up on the leash and a screw I placed as a handhold. I was more worried about pulling a tool out into my face.
I was surprised how the lads leash in the Aladdins video seemed to vapourise when he fell on it as it was a very similar fall to mine, except less steep terrain. One thing I do keep noticing is the krabs at each axe keep being cross loaded by the leash tape so I must put some elastics on them if I remember to prevent this.
> Although they're not rated for a fall, it appears that sometimes they hold and sometimes they don't. Anyone got any anecdotal evidence about what sort of fall will break them, or for that matter which is stronger between Grivel and BD?
I've taken a one metre fall on vertical ice with them and I use cheap dog leash clips from Spey Valley Hire. Surprisingly the leashes or the cheap clips didn't break though reaching my axes again was interesting!
> Anyone got any anecdotal evidence about what sort of fall will break them, or for that matter which is stronger between Grivel and BD?
I dropped a metre onto my grivel ones and didn't break them.
A couple of years ago I was belaying someone on top rope on a route that's about WI4. He was climbing with stretchy lanyards attached to his tools. About 20m off the ground he got into a bit of bother and both feet ended up skidding off the ice, leaving him hanging on his tools. Before he could get his feet back on he ran out of ability to hang on and he let go, sagging onto the rope. There was about 30m of rope between us so with the stretch in the rope he dropped about a metre or so. This stretched the lanyard on his top tool out to full extension and the tool then popped out.
At this moment he was hanging on the top rope with a freshly-sharpened BD viper accelerating towards him under gravity plus the tension in the lanyard. What's more, with the lanyard being clipped to his harness, there was little chance of it missing him.
Narrowly missing his face, the pick slashed across the side of his neck about an inch below his right ear, opening up a wound about 50mm long and 8-10mm deep. Amazingly it missed everything vital and there was surprisingly little blood. A bit of saline and some steristrips sorted him out and he got away with another scar for the collection.
My conclusion from this was that, unless I'm somewhere where dropping a tool is going to be a serious problem (e.g. an Alpine route) then I leave the lanyards at home. I view them as something to stop you losing your tools rather than something to sag, let alone drop onto. The chance of a tool popping out or breaking when you take even a short static fall onto it is high (see the photos in Craig Luebben's book for what happens to picks when they're overloaded.)
I know quite a few people have dropped onto their lanyards and everything has held. Please don't assume that this is going to happen every time.
Yes, umbilicals/lanyards are for multi-pitch ice and/or multi-pitch winter/alpine stuff..
For singe pitch ice/mixed/winter or what ever, leave the lanyards in the sack or home.
Your experience sounds similar to what we observed at the Ice Factor when people started using lanyards instead of wrist-leashes. Our solution was to stop climbers from hard-linking onto their lanyards, instead having a krab clipped onto the top-rope from their harness. Getting back up to axes following a fall can be difficult, but preferable to someone's face being slashed in two.
An alternative which I think deserves some consideration would be to lanyard one tool to the other. After all, you're surely unlikely to drop both?
Not unless you've done something really silly, like tying them together :-)
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