/ Ford focus steering noise help
It's a 2001 ford focus estate, 1.8 petrol.
For the past few weeks I've been getting a noise only on main roads while driving straight or turning left, but it stops when turning right. The car drives in a straight line on it's own (with hands off) but the steering wheel is slightly right hand down when going straight, by about 10 degrees off straight. Apart from that there are no other steering problems, no noise driving around town or when moving the wheel stationary and no clunks or bumps when steering.
The noise is a motor like, resonating sound which gets louder the further left I turn while driving on the A roads, anything above 45-50mph ish.
There's no play in the wheel and the CV joints look fine.
Any suggestions welcome,
Have you checked the level of your power steering fluid, if it gets too low it makes it noisy
Sounds like a wheel bearing. Faster you go the higher pitched it gets.
I've got the same on my van - need to get it in this week.
CV joints look in good condition, no visible signs of the rubber cracking or leaking. Could they still be goosed without any outwards signs of decay?
I did consider the wheel bearing, is there any way to check them? As I said there's no play in the wheel in any direction. I wouldn't say the noise is high pitched, it doesn't really sound rotational if that makes sense, more of a grinding, motory noise.
One way to check wheel bearings (no idea if it's foolproof or even particularly reliable, it's just what an RAC man showed me when I had an absolutely munted one on my 53 plate Focus estate) is to jack up the car to free up whichever wheel you suspect, and see if there's any play in the wheel towards and away from you.
You are describing a O/S front wheel bearing (drivers side).
This is exactly how we test for them, when you turn left you are transfering more weight to the righthand front wheel - so more noise. Turning to the right you unload the righthand wheel - less weight on the bearing - less noise.
Play in the wheel is not always noticable due to front brake calipers "holding" the disk.
The front off side is 10mm lower at the arch than the near side so I'm wondering if the person who suggested a suspension problem might have been right. I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and take it into the garage tomorrow as I'll need the car next weekend. Very annoying.
No rotational noise from the right hand front wheel when you spin it then?
Can you re-describe the symptoms? Your original description suggested a wheel bearing.
When driving the sound occurs going straight or left but stops when turning right. It only happens above 40-50mph and it's a kind of non-rotational, grinding, motory noise. Also the steering wheel sits right hand down by about 10 degrees off level. Also just noticed this morning that the offside front is sitting 10mm lower than the other side at the wheel arch. I'd really like it to be the springs but I'm not sure that would make the noise I'm hearing, they could just be old and in need of replacing but not what's causing the noise.
Just re-read your original description. No steering noises at stationary, so unlikley to be a broken spring, top mount (easy to check, is the coil complete at the bottom? or does it look broken?) or other suspension/steering problem. 10mm arch to wheel is not a lot.
When you took the brake caliper off, did the pads look ok? (worn pads allowing metal to metal contact with the rusty bits of the disk) , brake sliders free? (the sliding pins in the pad carrier that the caliper bolts too) and pads free to move in the carrier? anything seized will potentially cause a rubbing noise.
Did the tyre look ok, No lumps or bulges or uneven wear? again this can cause road noise (and can be dangerous!)
Still think its your wheel bearing, play is not always evident. The ability to "switch" the noise on and off by rocking the steering wheel while driving is the big clue.
Just to make sure give it another road test, drop the front windows so you are listening to sounds from outside the car, as sound can travel through the body of the car. If you are unsure, check the rear wheel bearings too.
Just had the front O/S wheel bearing replaced on my 2007 Ford Focus on Wednesday. The symptoms you're describing are exactly the same as I was encountering; even the steering wheel being 10 - 15 degrees out of line when holding the car straight. Noise seemed to be at its loudest at 55mph, above 65 it sort of worn off. Was worse turning the car one direction but eased off completely turning it the other way.
My money = wheel bearing.
By the way, I paid £140 fully fitted at my local garage. National quoted me £208.
Thought I'd chuck that in there as a guide price if you weren't going to do it yourself.
> By the way, I paid £140 fully fitted at my local garage. National quoted me £208.
Heavens above, aren't wheel bearings like £10 and a 30 min job if you've got the machinery to remove it?
The coils don't look broken and they bounce ok, no noticeable change in how it drives either.
Sounds like the consensus is it's the bearing, cheers for everyones help.
> Heavens above, aren't wheel bearings like £10 and a 30 min job if you've got the machinery to remove it?
No, front wheel drive wheel bearing are generally double row bearing and take a little while to change.
> No, front wheel drive wheel bearing are generally double row bearing and take a little while to change.
Surely it's just a case of taking the wheel and caliper off, undoing half a dozen bolts to release the hub, taking the bearing out, putting the new one in and reassembling. With one of those fancy bolt guns to remove the bolts and a tool to squeeze the bearing out surely it can't take that long?
> Surely it's just a case of taking the wheel and caliper off, undoing half a dozen bolts to release the hub, taking the bearing out, putting the new one in and reassembling. With one of those fancy bolt guns to remove the bolts and a tool to squeeze the bearing out surely it can't take that long?
It needed a special tool for my Renault, I had to get a thick walled tube about 8" long and machine either end to the sizes needed to first drift out the old bearing and then swap it over and bash in the new one ( carefully bash it that is, making sure it was straight. ) A garage should have a hydraulic press, making it easier.
Easier to get the garage to do it , if you have the cash.
Definitely sounds like a bearing. Jack the car up and spin the wheel slowly - you'll be able to feel roughness if the bearing's gone.
I've had 3 go on my Focus. If you're doing the work yourself, ignore the bit in the Haynes manual that suggests you can knock the bearing out with a hammer and punch. Yes, it's on a taper, but it's a very fine taper and if it's a bit stuck, it won't shift - I ended up taking mine to a friendly garage to swap just the bearing for a tenner, then reassembled it at home.
If you'd said a squeak, I'd have said anti-roll bar link rods.
Another problem I had with my Focus was the hub nut coming loose - this meant that the corner of the brake caliper was able to rub on the back of the disk and cause a bit of a noise.
Check the nut for tightness and both sides of the disk for any scoring - also check caliper for any signs of rubbing.
Spent a tonne of money changing my CV joints. Turned out to be a bearing. Ford hubs don't necessarily conform to the woggle test. The dodgy bearning on mind felt true and tight when woggled.
Defo sounds like the bearing. The focus front bearings are pressed onto the stud and into the hub. You need a press to do it and you normally need to take the assembly off the car to do it. This is why it's costly because there are numerous bolts, all of which are rusty and seized full of crap so are a pain to shift.
The hub nut preloads the bearing, when you re-assemble it will need torqueing up to about 280NM, (technical term is FT).
Somewhere in my shed is a 3 foot long torque wrench along with other oversize tools of my late father's kit. You don't live near Loch Lomond do you ?
When I did the rear wheel bearings on my focus I bought new drums with the bearings already pressed in and made do with a wrench that went up to 190 Nm. The rears only need 230 Nm so I gave it 190 and then a fraction more. Nothing has fallen off yet. 280 Nm for the front may be a bit too much to guess at.
My brother overtightened a rear wheel bearing on a Mk 1 Golf years ago and the wheel sheared off at 80mph... Oops...
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