UKC

I've never been and want to get out this week.

What are the really worthwhile climbs at High Neb anything upto and including E1.

Thanks

In reply to Tamati: I'd take in the area up to Marble Wall, where you'll find Right Hand Tower (one of the best HVSs on the whole crag) and Terazza Crack (a proper 'ard HVS crack). I really rate Traversties too (nearer E1 than HVS I think), plus if you have a pad or two Pig's Ear. Quantum Crack is quite good and Sudoxe is a lovely little route. Exodus is a good crack climb, but Deuteronomy is a total nightmare.

In reply to Jon Stewart: The glaring omission from the above is Kelly's Overhang. An excellent route but a real swine.

In reply to Tamati:

Don't forget high neb itself

In reply to Tamati:

Jon recommendations are really good, I'd personally add the Blurter to the list, along with Right Hand Tower and Terazza Crack its up there with some of the best on the edge.

In reply to Tamati:
High Neb buttress is a must do. The above recomendations are all great. The travesties wall had some nice short and tricky gems (pigs ear is a good highball). Cosmic and Quantum cracks are very pleasant. Kellys Overhang is bloody awkward. A good tough one is Jeepers Creepers for some good old overhang jamming/sloper practice. Weeman fell seconding this straight after he proclaimed that he had never fallen seconding.

You will find it hard to go wrong

In reply to Tamati:

S-Twisting crack/Cave Recess
VS-High neb Buttress (variations)/ inaccessible crack (direct)
HVS- right hand tower/Jeepers creepers/ Terrazza Crack
E1- Kellys overhang

I'ts a great area and once you get past twisting crack it tends to be quiet even on the busiest of days. As others have said Right Hand Tower is a must do and if it's windy Terrazza crack can be sheltered. Inaccessible crack has a really cool E1 variation finish too which is good fun.
I also think High Neb Variations is a little better than High Neb Buttress with a pretty tough starting crack and a more direct line up the slab.

In reply to Tamati:
Tango Buttress, High Neb Buttress, Dalesman, Jeepers Creepers, Kelly's Overhang, The Blurter, would be a good start

In reply to B_Mark_W:

Thanks for the info Mark.

Tango Buttress and High Neb Buttress are two of the finest slabby HS/VS routes around. I didn't think much to Right Hand Tower though - generic grit break to break climbing. The various routes up cracks to the right are all worthwhile though, and all pretty tough!

For something a bit different, Titanic and Anniversary Arete are both well worth a look especially on a busy weekend.

In reply to Tamati:


1. Get guidebook
2. Turn to the page on High Nebb
3. Look for climbs at E1 and below
4. Et voila!

There are few sh1t climbs at High Nebb.

In reply to mark20:

Essential grit break to break climbing, I'd say. More sustained and a better line that similar routes like Meiosis, Cold Turkey, Black Magic,The Flange. Sounds like you did it too late?


I think Titanic Direct is the star of that show, a brilliant varied route which doesn't let up.

In reply to Tamati:

I can't think of a bad route at High Neb to be honest. All good suggestions above. I'd just add that the best quality is probably found on the tallest buttresses. Although that's not to say there are no worthwhile short routes. There's a cracking Severe called Meson which I love to lap again and again. It's a 4b move to get off the ground followed by VDiff jug swinging.