/ North-East Buttress - Mantrap/40ft Corner Variants

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Tom Knowles - on 23 Feb 2013
Has anyone taken the variants high up on North-East Buttress that avoid the Mantrap and 40ft Corner? Had a colleague asking me about these yesterday and although I've done NEB I didn't take any variants.

From what I can gather the Mantrap is easily avoidable on the right and the 40ft Corner can be avoided "on the left by a small gully". Just wondering how obvious/easier these diversions are, and if there are any conditions when they're not viable. Thanks!
andrew ogilvie - on 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Tom Knowles: Man trap avoidable on the left up a short over hang. This probably isnt a great deal easier but is much less exposed an intimidating. 40 ft corner also avoidable on left by traversing round away from the crest of the ridge and finishing up little Brenva Face . I have also taken these variations in descent in the summer but many years ago so little detail remian in the memory .
What is certain ( having done NE ridge again a couple of years ago after R hand route) is that both these variations are inferior to the man trap 40 ft corner line although, in summer, the Man Trap is the most scratched and eroded bit of rock I've seen in the mountains - which is a bit of a shame
Tom Knowles - on 23 Feb 2013
In reply to andrew ogilvie:

Thanks Andrew, hadn't heard about the left variation to the Mantrap before, good to know. I can imagine any variations are not as good/memorable(!) as taking the line direct. Cheers!
Ross McGibbon - on 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Tom Knowles:
The Man trap can be avoided by traversing right and up. That takes you out over Tue Orion Face, which is easier but airy. I found the Man trap very hard and out of keeping with the rest of the route, so preferred that variant. 40 Foot Corner, however, was fun and the right level of difficulty.

Ross
jacobfinn on 23 Feb 2013
In reply to Ross McGibbon: Seconding the Man Trap in thin winter conditions a couple of years ago was very hard - a bit of a wake up considering the long and mostly undemanding nature of the route up to that point. The 40ft corner (at least on the end of a rope) was a brilliant way to end the climb.

Why do the variants though?
Ross McGibbon - on 24 Feb 2013
In reply to jacobfinn:
Because when the trap and its top are bare, it was beyond me!
Only a hill - on 24 Feb 2013
In reply to Tom Knowles:
I haven't done the route in winter, but in summer conditions I avoided the Mantrap via a slab to the right of the direct route.
joe king - on 15 Mar 2013
The tourist route avoids the man trap
Why avoid the best bit if the route?

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