/ Top 10 Multi-pitch E1's in the UK

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Bertbee - on 07 Mar 2013
Hey all,

Three of us are at the very beginning of our plans to climb The Nose - exciting times! One of the (many) steps we need to take on this road is climbing together - a lot - a step which we're pretty happy to commit to!

So, we're interested in knowing peoples opinions on the Top 10 multi-pitch E1's in the country, presuming you were preparing for El Cap. So, there are certain variables that will be 'more important' than others - for instance, a climb that gives us lots of exposure, with lots of crack climbing, and lots of pitches, will be pretty high up on the list. A three-pitch slab affair - however 'good' as a route - probably isn't a priority. (But we might do it anyway).

All opinions and experience welcome!
Roberttaylor - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: Go to grit, see how many E1 cracks you can climb in a day?
Dave Kerr - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

The Needle?

Although as you've probably realised nothing in the UK is really going to prepare you properly.
The Ex-Engineer - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: One word - Fairhead

You might as well ignore every other crag in the entire United Kingdom. The routes at Fairhead are the only ones that even come close to US style crack climbing.
PeteWilson on 07 Mar 2013
The Long And The Short, Encouragement (Both 2 pitch E1 5b's on Hen Cloud, Staffordshire). I reckon they could both be good contenders?
Bulls Crack - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

As already said - precious little mp crack climbing but top 10 mp E1's? Coronation Street obviously, Diagonal, Banzai Pipeline, Old Man of Hoy
Bulls Crack - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to PeteWilson:
> The Long And The Short,

The 7 metre route at Stanage?
YorkshireCanuck - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:
Cenotaph corner and Cemetry gates in Llanberis both good.
Goucho on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: Enjoy them all and have fun.

Just remember, no amount of them will actually prepare you for climbing in Yosemite (especially cracks), let alone The Nose.

Two weeks climbing shorter routes in Yosemite, will teach you more about The Nose, than two years of multi-pitching in the UK.

And don't worry about this, because all us mere mortals have all been there on that 'first' trip to the valley :-)
Mark Collins - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack: Bit of an off width on Central Buttress.
james.slater - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: Super direct on dinas mot, llanberis pass is a great E1, exposed but not exactly el cap practise!
Cameron94 on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: If only three pebble slap was multi-pitch...


Not that I have any experience of El Cap but wouldn't long days on sea cliffs be really helpful. The longer the better obviously.
Jon Stewart - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

Some really classic multi-pitch E1s are:

Central Buttress, Scafell
Gogarth (but it's not that great, but it's the big E1 on the Main Cliff)
Suicide Wall (Bosigran)
Jack The Ripper

We don't tend to have many sustained routes with lots of cracks, but these all have a bit of crackiness to them, and are some of the best routes in the country.

I would have no idea how to prepare for The Nose, btw.
Kevster - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:
Go to millstone, ab off, hanging belay 2 inches off the ground, repeat, on the next route. Continue until a muerte. That'd be easy cracks to get to at e1 and multipitch.

Cornwall and Lundy do ok for granite cracks too.

I've never been to America, so making it up as I go... Have fun. Personally id climb lots and have a pinch of adventure, with a little blind faith.
neuromancer - on 07 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

The Plum?
johncoxmysteriously - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:

>I would have no idea how to prepare for The Nose, btw.

The traditional advice is to spend the summer working on a building site, surely?

jcm
Jonny2vests - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
> (In reply to Bertbee) One word - Fairhead
>
> You might as well ignore every other crag in the entire United Kingdom. The routes at Fairhead are the only ones that even come close to US style crack climbing.

Yeah, that's not a bad idea.
Al Evans on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Jonny2vests: How about this (Fantan B)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=121113
adam11 - on 08 Mar 2013
The Grooves on Cyrn Las. Probably heresy to say it, but I think it's a better route than the iconic low 'E' grade routes on the other side of tha Pass.
GrahamD - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

For Cornwall multipitch E1, I'd say Astral Stroll is much better than Suicide Wall - in fact i'd say Thin Wall Special is also better.
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Jon Stewart - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to Bertbee)
>
> For Cornwall multipitch E1, I'd say Astral Stroll is much better than Suicide Wall - in fact i'd say Thin Wall Special is also better.

I agree about Astral Stroll as the much better route, but since it doesn't really go up, let alone up a crack, I thought it might not be what the OP was after. But yeah, any trip to Cornwall for multi-pitch E1 could hardly miss it out, it's one of the best routes I've ever done.
tprebs - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

Agreed! 3km of steep crack climbing upto 100m. There is nothing else like it in the UK.

there are ~100 E1s-E2s between 40-100metres the majority involve crack climbing. (thats at least 4000m of crack climbing)

with the nose being a just under 3000 metres of you can get your miles in at fairhead first!

Some notable routes:

E2 Multi pitches
Hurricane
Blind Pew
Mizen Star
Equinox
Conchubair
Cúchulainn
The Brasser

E1 Multi pitches
Toby Jug
An Bealach Rúnda
Aoife

Classic E1 Single pitches
Mongrel Fox
Thunderhips
Fireball
Midnight Cruiser
Railroad
Fáth Mo Bhuartha
Simple Minds
Crib Pad Crack

tprebs - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to tprebs:

In fact Why bother with El Cap... Just go to Fairhead
RKernan - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to tprebs:
Bring a portaledge and traverse the beast!
caradoc - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: Nexus
Bertbee - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

Great response everyone!

Beyond 'cracks', we just need to rack up loads of routes together, getting used to working efficiently as a team, building belays in record-time etc.

Nothing will come close to actually getting to Yosemite, but there is loads we can do before hand that will work in our favour. Like being a better climber!

Someone had elsewhere recommended camping at a crag for three days, doing ten E1 routes a day, whatever the conditions when we are there. Mostly, apparently, to toughen us up mentally for relentless climbing, even when you are f***ing sick of climbing.


So another question - if you were going anywhere in Europe to do your first ever big wall climbs, where would it be? I've heard people talk of Paklenica in Croatia? Also - has anyone got experience of Cadarese? That looks like a European crack heaven!
TRip - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
> (In reply to Bertbee) One word - Fairhead
>
> You might as well ignore every other crag in the entire United Kingdom. The routes at Fairhead are the only ones that even come close to US style crack climbing.

What about Kilt Rock?
Albachoss - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: Coronation Street in Cheddar Gorge. It's a 115m E1 5b of some pretty hard crack climbing. Not the smooth cracks you will find on the nose but definitely something to sink your hand and feet into. The first pitch is a bit naff but after that it is superb. Great exposure too.
Pero - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: Isn't The Nose more like E7 6c than E1 5b?
Sandstone Stickman - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

Get some 18 - 20 hour days under your belt, e.g. the Cuillin Ridge, some big link ups in North Wales etc. Outside of the Uk, Picos de Europa is a great area for 20+ pitch routes that can be done in a day.

Swanage - The Boulder Ruckle is a great place to get used to big exposure.

Aside for climbing, being able to sustain long days, plus being used to roughing it / biving out etc will really help!

General fitness will pay dividends - Running and Swimming are good options.
Bertbee - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Pero:

We're not planning on freeing it - all the harder stuff will be aided.
Owen W-G - on 08 Mar 2013
Superdirect into the Grooves in Llanberis pass
peter.herd - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: Include long single pitch too? Lots of good jamming cracks at Ardmair crags, i guess it depends where you stay. Do Jack the Ripper while your there. The needle for length and exposure too.
Bertbee - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

Great call folks on The Needle - I'm planning on doing Haystack with a different team later this year, so will try and roll in the Needle in the same trip.

My wishlist is growing!
Motown - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to AlexanderRyanBanks:
> (In reply to Bertbee) Coronation Street in Cheddar Gorge. It's a 115m E1 5b of some pretty hard crack climbing. Not the smooth cracks you will find on the nose but definitely something to sink your hand and feet into. The first pitch is a bit naff but after that it is superb. Great exposure too.

But I think you need to do it by next week or wait till October.
Mark Collins - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: Carnage Left-hand
The Ex-Engineer - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to TRip:
> What about Kilt Rock?

Unfortunately it's only got a single pitch of E1 climbing.

However, if you are looking at E2-E3 then you are correct in that it would be a great choice for a day trip with 7 quality routes.

Bertbee - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Will Cat:

Really - what are the conditions there?
pacman - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

carnage left hand, not much in the way of crack climbing but three star and you get to practice hanging from a peg
Dave Kerr - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to pacman:
> (In reply to Bertbee)
>
> you get to practice hanging from a peg

That peg gave me the willies. Has it been replaced?
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JCurrie - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:
> (In reply to Bertbee)
>
> Great call folks on The Needle - I'm planning on doing Haystack with a different team later this year, so will try and roll in the Needle in the same trip.
>
> My wishlist is growing!

Same DAY, surely?!

Jase
Old Skooled - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to JCurrie:

Maybe I've missed it but no one seems to have suggested just about the most obvious answer: Cloggy. Plenty of longish routes, plenty of cracks, some good link-up potential.
Tom Last - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
> (In reply to TRip)
> [...]
>
> Unfortunately it's only got a single pitch of E1 climbing.
>
> However, if you are looking at E2-E3 then you are correct in that it would be a great choice for a day trip with 7 quality routes.

Likewise nearby Rubha Hunish - there's a crag with a future...
Mark Collins - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: Slightly off track, but once you've got your aid skills dialled, you might use the bolts of Malham Cove to form a ladder from bottom to top. It certainly has big exposure, and could possibly be pitched like a real big wall route with pig. Could you even setup a portaledge on it and stay the night? Anyone know if this could be done, or is acceptable?
Mark Collins - on 08 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: Sirplum
silo - on 09 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee: If you want big routes may be something on Creag an Dubh Loch .The crag its self must be in the top ten!
Motown - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:
> (In reply to Will Cat)
>
> Really - what are the conditions there?

I could be wrong, but I think the ban comes into place at the end of this week.
jkarran - on 11 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

IMHO training for this sort of thing should definitely include several multi-day sessions lugging weights up hill then sitting with your team mates in the blazing sun sharing a small bottle of water and hitting each others finger and toenails with sticks. The climbing is a fraction of the challenge. It's a good goal though, don't take this as discouragement!

A couple of weekends on the Shelterstone sleeping in the skicenter carpark and packing all your stuff in and out each day would be my suggestion.

Climbing wise Tremadog is reasonably similar in places to Yosemite albeit on a different scale.

jk
Erstwhile on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to tprebs:
> (In reply to The Ex-Engineer)

> with the nose being a just under 3000 metres of you can get your miles in at fairhead first!
>

You are suffering from Napoleon complex - Height of route: 2900' (= 884 m)
Robert Durran - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

Are you going to practise aid climbing? I recommend Cenotaph Dihedral on a sunny bank holiday. Afterwards you could try that splitter to the left of it.
ashtond6 - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

Do cenotaph followed by the grond
Grond goes at E2 for UK climbers but only a 5.10 in USA

Also, go to Orco for a week in italy
biscuit - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Bertbee:

Not what you're asking for ( sorry ) but we came across lots of multi-pitch cracks in Morocco in the HVS to E2 spread.

May be worth it for a trip before the nose.

Also East face of Naranjo de Bulnes. Massive routes there around E1 and some aid as well to practice.
Bertbee - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to jkarran:

Yeah I think we were planning on something similar to that suggestion! I think we put it down as the more friendly sounding 'environmental endurance' ;)
Bertbee - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Robert Durran:

Yeah we are going to practise aid before we go out, and hopefully do one of the few big wall courses. Either with Andy K, or one at Plas y Brenin.

Has anyone got experience of these?

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