/ NEWS: VIDEO: London Wall (E5) in Trainers...

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UKC News - on 12 Mar 2013
Pete Whittaker at Millstone, 3 kbIt's clearly an advert for Five Ten trainers, but in this short video we see Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker in action at Millstone.

The video is definitely worth a watch though as Pete's one handed ascent of Technical Master was pretty cool, and Tom's ascent of London Wall was actually quite gripping!

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67899

t_stork - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: I found this surprisingly dull, and mainly an extended advert for 5.10 trainers. Am I missing something?
puppythedog on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to t_stork: no it's an extended advert for 5:10. I enjoyed it though, a couple of lads having a giggle getting up stuff in trainers i may never get up in stickies :-)
muppetfilter - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: Brilliant, hopefully it will encourage some strong inexperienced young climbers to get on it and take ground falls and hopefully suffer some nasty head injuries... Hurrah !!!
puppythedog on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter: You can make that argument about any professional or very good climber putting out any video of hard stuff, bold stuff, hard bold stuff or soloing. why is different for this one?
muppetfilter - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: Did you miss the bit about doing it in trainers .. It's in the title.
puppythedog on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter: No, I don't see why that is different to soloing, doing bold routes, choosing not to use you hands, wearing roller skates etc. If people can differentiate between stuff that others can do and they cannot up until this film with the wealth of videos out there of dangerous, bold routes, of soloing etc why can they suddenly not with someone wearing trainers?
Ramblin dave - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:
Maybe the response here would be more positive if they'd just stuck to an insight packed interview with Steve McClure instead...
t_stork - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: I don't agree with the whole "people will go try and hurt themselves" rubbish, I just didn't find it that interesting.
muppetfilter - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to puppythedog: This is an advert being posted by UKC as News... You may be a little young to remember the perforated eardrums caused by Tango.
What this may do is lull the inexperienced into the thinking that "It can't be that bad a route as "X" did it in trainers" As an advertising product from 5.10 they and UKC should have a bit of responsibility for their content.
puppythedog on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter: Instead of asking you questions to see if I can get you to see it from my point of view I will just share my point of view. I think your response is a little bit over the top, unnecessary and quite baseless.

victim of mathematics - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter:
> (In reply to puppythedog) This is an advert being posted by UKC as News... You may be a little young to remember the perforated eardrums caused by Tango.
> What this may do is lull the inexperienced into the thinking that "It can't be that bad a route as "X" did it in trainers" As an advertising product from 5.10 they and UKC should have a bit of responsibility for their content.

As an individual or a company, just how responsible are you or should you be for other people being massive cretins?

You're like a one-person nanny state gone wrong.
creag - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:
List of routes done in guide tennies;
Hammer - Etive Slabs
Centurion - Carn Dearg
Very comfy ascent and descents!!
GrahamD - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter:


> What this may do is lull the inexperienced into the thinking that "It can't be that bad a route as "X" did it in trainers"

Heaven help 'em if they accidentally saw a copy of Stone Monkey.
Ciderslider - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: Spurred on by this video I though I can do that, it looks really easy. So I soloed both routes in flippers and a tutu . The only ill effect I suffered was frostbitten nipples - I hold 5.10 solely responsible for my injury and wanna know what they are gonna do for goading me into such irresponsible behaviour!
Bloody brill video lads
James Malloch - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter:
> (In reply to puppythedog) ...lull the inexperienced into the thinking that "It can't be that bad a route as "X" did it in trainers"

Surely you'd have to be pretty damn stupid to think that though.

It's like saying if you saw Bradley Wiggins do the Tour de France on a BMX then if must be easy and I'll go and try it...
GuyVG - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> (In reply to muppetfilter)
> [...]
>
> As an individual or a company, just how responsible are you or should you be for other people being massive cretins?
>
> You're like a one-person nanny state gone wrong.

+ 1, get a grip
Daniel Heath - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Wow great effort. It's actually the best vid I've seen of London wall in any style.
a lakeland climber on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to creag:

Add Right Wall to that list.

ALC
puppythedog on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: I did think, oh I fancy a go at that now about both :-) Nice video chaps.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Lord_ash2000 - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: Just to bring the thread back onto climbing from the normal UKC nonsense.
It is impressive just what you can get up in a pair of approach shoes. Admittedly I wouldn't fancy leading anything to hard on trad because of the insecurity of the foot placements and the fact I'm a wimp. But trad-wise I've top roped in trainers nearly as hard as I've ever led on trad, although I was a fair bit more pumped in trainers.

Makes you wonder how much of rock shoe marketing is just hype, that constant quest for perfection in the shoe to push the limits of friction and performance that little bit further. Considering all the novice climbers you see at the wall in their downturned high performance shoes because they think it'll give them that slight edge on the pink V4 problem they have been projecting when really it makes little difference There may be something in it for the f9b / Font 8C climbers of the world but I reckon for most a bog standard pair of climbing shoes will get them up everything they'll ever likely do.

P.S. I also wear a pair high end downturned shoes, then normally complain when I can't do slabs.
Ciderslider - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to James Malloch: Or Lance Armstrong doing it clean ;-)
Ciderslider - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Lord_ash2000: I think it just goes to show how good they are - I remember doing a route at Millstone in approach shoes - followed my mate up a pretty easy route and though this will be piss easy won't bother putting on my rock shoes - it made me realise that the rock shoes make a big difference (even with my shite footwork)
Epsilon - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Reminds me of a time when some mates and I were faffing around on a F6c route and asked another friend at the crag (an 8b+ climber) to show us the beta. He tied in to the rope with a bowline on a bite and hiked the route in his approach shoes.
jon on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:
> (In reply to creag)
>
> Add Right Wall to that list.
>
> ALC

Mojo, flip flops. Pincushion, wellies. Silly ArÍte, hush puppies.

This needs a separate thread...

creag - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to jon: Impressive!
I think you're right Jon but how can we beat Little Cham in boxing gloves and roller skates?
a lakeland climber on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to jon:

I was there that day you did Mojo in flip-flops. It wasn't the roof that impressed but the groove getting up there! :-)

ALC
a lakeland climber on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Top Trump is ....


Big Ron doing Sardine in Hanwags!

ALC
Stabba - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: Still better than the knackered EBs bancroft had on the FA.
jon on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Or anything in Hanwags. Look at about seven minutes in, trying to re-climb Strawberries.

The hush puppies and wellies weren't me, though.
pauldr - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Nice video, Shame 5,10 shoes are so poor and there after sales service is even worse.. Had some of those trainers and after 2 months so sole started pealing away (wasnt climbing in them). Bought some Impact lows while on holiday and after 3-4 months the entire side of the shoe split. Contacted 5.10 asked if i could send the impacts back, they replied that the only way i could return them was to take them back to the original store i bought them from (over 500miles away) when i asked if i could return to them direct they flat out refused.
TRip - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:

There is a great anecdote about the Brat seconding Lord in trainers. I think he'd just belayed the first female ascent and didn't want to be out done!

Also did Al Phizacklea regularly solo MGC in his trainers to wind up people who had just failed on it?

I think Leo Holding and/or Tim Emment have climbed Right Wall in big boots.

Twid is supposed to have lead Left Wall in Scarpa Mantas in the rain.
remus - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to pauldr: Build quality is certainly debatable, but if you're willing to post them back to 5.10 what's so bad about posting them back to the retailer you bought them from? Doesn't seem like an unreasonable request to me.
Phil Payne - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

I used to have a pair of 5.10 approach shoes and they were great and I climbed quite a bit with them as the rubber felt so sticky, just like ordinary rock boots. The problem is that on more than one occasion I managed to climb myself into tricky situations, where I needed a more precise shoe for a particular move.

On one occasion, I was quite high up a slabby route when my only bit of gear popped out just as I was facing a tricky traverse across a slab that only had a tiny little pocket to get your toe in. It took me about 20 mins to build up the courage to go for it and it ended up in some desperate scratching to get to the safety of the tree that was growing on a ledge at the other end of the traverse.

That was the last time that I ever tried leading anything in trainers.
mkean - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to TRip:
Someone practically sprinted past me up Right Wall while I was attempting to excavate my mates entire rack from Cemetry Gates. Apparently he made some comment about having to get a shift on as it was about to rain as he passed the ledge; didn't do my ego any good.

I've lead a few routes in a pair of Guide Tennies and they are fine on easy stuff but I'm not sure I'd fancy an E5 even if it was on my usual circuit!
Jonny2vests - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

I climb quite a lot in 5.10 approach shoes, usually all my seconding and leading up to HVS, easily the best make for climbing in. Bloody handy in the alpine.
a lakeland climber on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to TRip:

Re the Al Phizacklea tail about MGC. What he'd do was turn up at the crag, put his sack down, announce loudly "Eh up! that looks good! Wonder what it is?" then solo MGC :-)

To add to the list - I've seen someone do Flashdance on the slate in trainers. Scary.

ALC
jon on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to a lakeland climber)
>
> Or anything in Hanwags. Look at about seven minutes in, trying to re-climb Strawberries.

Ah, forgot the link. Watch the sketchy footwork on Strawberries, then even more impressively on The Prow: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKc_LkFJrGI
Dave Foster - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: Check out the beta on that!
Enty - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:
> (In reply to TRip)
>

> To add to the list - I've seen someone do Flashdance on the slate in trainers. Scary.
>

That's impressive.

E


johnjanuary on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: A really interesting vid of the wall climb ruined by the constant switching from close to long shots. Just wish I was half as good a climber as these guys but they have been let down by poor editing.
Grimpeur - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to jon)
> [...]
>
> Ah, forgot the link. Watch the sketchy footwork on Strawberries, then even more impressively on The Prow: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKc_LkFJrGI

Talk about hamming it up on The Prow with all the puffing and panting! Telling how he photogenicly hangs on one hand near the top not remotely pumped (and forgetting its supposed to look like a struggle to the punters)!

Good old Ron, my hero in my late youth, I did Body Machine under his watchful gaze and encouragement!

The Grimpeur
Robert Durran - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to TRip:
> (In reply to a lakeland climber)
>
> There is a great anecdote about the Brat seconding Lord in trainers. I think he'd just belayed the first female ascent and didn't want to be out done!

He probably just wanted to piss her off; he was not called the brat for no reason. He once soloed down an E4 at Pass of Ballater in trainers while I was gearing (and psyching) up to lead it. Bastard - a talented one though.....
ablackett - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: I don't think it's as impressive/difficult as they make out in the video. They are dam good shoes with very sticky rubber, so long as a route doesn't rely on tiny edging and is more about smearing why not do it in the 5.10 approach shoes. My feet swelled up a couple of years ago and I did all of my climbing in them for a while including the Old Man of Hoy. I found them as good as my knackered old rock shoes, but much more comfy.

Might have made a better advert if it featured someone normal doing something normal and finding it ok, but less exciting!
Bulls Crack - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Not impressed - no boxing gloves and roller skates!
snoop6060 - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter:
> (In reply to UKC News) Brilliant, hopefully it will encourage some strong inexperienced young climbers to get on it and take ground falls and hopefully suffer some nasty head injuries... Hurrah !!!

You really are a muppet.
Goucho on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to ablackett: It would be interesting to see how these 5.10 'sticky' trainers compare to a pair of old EB's held together with gaffa tape, like what a lot of us old farts used to climb in :-)

The Pylon King on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Its an advert. I hope five ten paid UKC to show this.
Guy Atkinson - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:
I don't think i've ever actually seen a video of London Wall all the way to the top.. they usually fall off and give up. For this reason alone I think it's a pretty good video.
Guy Atkinson - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: Now to see somebody do it barefoot?
Frogger - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to snoop6060:
> (In reply to muppetfilter)
> [...]
>
> You really are a muppet.


I think you're right there!!!


What a great video, by the way :)
Vertical_sniper - on 12 Mar 2013
Hi fellow climbers, is anyone else trying to track down the soundtrack? I cant find that anywhere??? Any advice/pointers greatly appreciated. 😉
muppetfilter - on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to Frogger: I feel the Love ;0)

Funny that those that are most offended by my point are the late teen/ early twenties low E grade leaders.... Possibly those most easily swayed and at risk of what I described above.
puppythedog on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter: I'm thirty ya muppet and quite capable of deciding for myself what to do. No I'm off to solo London Wall in my New Balance running shoes, it looks easy and fun!
puppythedog on 12 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter: but I am wearing well so I'll let you off for thinking that all the reasoned arguments i was trying to make are a product of being in my early twenties and therefore automatically stupid.
PeteH - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to jon:
> Ah, forgot the link. Watch the sketchy footwork on Strawberries, then even more impressively on The Prow: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKc_LkFJrGI

Gah!!! My eyes!!! Too many crotch shots!

Pete

PS Wire brush, eh? Cheers Ron, must try that...
Flashman - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: So... why is it called London Wall?
Blue Straggler - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Yeah but what have they done on unquarried grit?
captain gargantua - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Scottmeister: I've been looking for the last track on the video. Tried searching in loads of places but can't find it :(

Which one are you looking for?
Jonny2vests - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Flashman:
> (In reply to UKC News) So... why is it called London Wall?

Lots of Millstone routes have a London theme.
walts4 - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter:
> (In reply to Frogger) I feel the Love ;0)
>
> Funny that those that are most offended by my point are the late teen/ early twenties low E grade leaders.... Possibly those most easily swayed and at risk of what I described above.

So WRONG yet again.

Please stick to the general nannying at which you excel
wilkie14c - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Yeah but what have they done on unquarried grit?

I've done Black Hawk Hell crack with nothing on but some sling backs and a hard. Wasn't soloing though - I'm not mad
puppythedog on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Blue Straggler: I know this post was tongue in cheek. If the Roaches are not quarried Pete has done 'the hardest move on Grit' with A Little Peculiar'.
Mike Raine - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Rubbish!

JD was soling Wellington Crack in his trainers years ago (long before 5tennies), up and down!
simes303 - on 13 Mar 2013
edinburgh_man on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Top trump could be Johnny Dawes doing Indian Face in a pair of Guide Tennies. Admitedly on TR but still 7b+ climbing!
Enty - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

One for the anoraks - Who did the first and second routes which introduced a London theme to new routes at Millstone?

Good quiz question "Name all the London themed routes at Millstone edge"

E
biscuit - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to 7b forever:

There's a pic on here somewhere of Gaz Parry climbing an 8a in Guide Tennies.

I've onsighted 6b+ in trainers ( not technical approach shoes ). It's surprising what you can get up in them.
chrisicles - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:
Groovy socks!
Arms Cliff - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Flashman:
> (In reply to UKC News) So... why is it called London Wall?

Another London Street name like a lot of the Millstone Routes https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=London+Wall,+City+of+London,+London,+United+Kingdom&hl=en&l...
victim of mathematics - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter:
> (In reply to Frogger) I feel the Love ;0)
>
> Funny that those that are most offended by my point are the late teen/ early twenties low E grade leaders.... Possibly those most easily swayed and at risk of what I described above.

Eh? Even by your own low standards that's nonsensical tosh.

Your post wasn't offensive, just idiotic. Go away, read some Sartre, and stop worrying about everything. I'd suggest you must work in health and safety, but the only person I know who does is well-balanced and has a perfectly sensible attitude to risk and responsibility. Unlike you.
Darron - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter:

Excellent troll by the way
dbturner - on 13 Mar 2013
I believe Chris Gore did London Wall in trainers back in the 80's - don't recollect if it was a lead or second ...
Vertical_sniper - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to simes303: thanks dude, got the app on my phone so just need to shazam it off me laptop! Thanks again for the tip!
BigBrother - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to muppetfilter:
> (In reply to puppythedog) Did you miss the bit about doing it in trainers .. It's in the title.

The real problem is that neither of them were wearing a Hi-Viz vest. I agree that a website like UKC should ensure that any climbers shown in its videos are wearing appropriate safety equipment.
puppythedog on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Darron: Would have been but he returned to the thread to re-stoke the fire. 5/10
vscott - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: Impressive - tennies (attached to suitably talented feet) climb great... but are not always so great on steep, boggy grassy approaches :-)
Jonny2vests - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to Mike Raine:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Rubbish!
>
> JD was soling Wellington Crack in his trainers years ago (long before 5tennies), up and down!

I don't think anyone is suggesting that its groundbreaking.
davebrown3 - on 13 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News: nice video. thanks to UKC for sticking it up.
rooroo - on 14 Mar 2013
great climbing but incredibly annoying choppy footage.
gritstoner - on 14 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Loved the video. Not exactly earth-shattering as a global climbing accomplishment, whereas a barefoot F8b solo definitely is:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60048

Just saying. Let's keep some perspective.
Jonny2vests - on 14 Mar 2013
In reply to gritstoner:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Just saying. Let's keep some perspective.

But who are you saying it to?
Fredt on 14 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Firstly, the video was shocking, appalling editing and painful to watch.

Secondly, are we talking about 5.10 'trainers', or 5.10 Guide Tennies which have sticky dotty soles and are designed for climbing in?
Pete Ford on 14 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

I soloed 'Low man easy way' at Almscliffe once in black fake leather plastic school shoes, I know I was being irresponsible and it may have encouraged others to bunk off school...but hey, it was the seventies.

Pete
GuyVG - on 14 Mar 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Neat video, good job
Al Evans on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to a lakeland climber)
> [...]
>
> Mojo, flip flops. Pincushion, wellies. Silly ArÍte, hush puppies.
>
> This needs a separate thread...

And don't forget that Harris followed the first ascent of Zuckator in winkle pickers :-)
jon on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Al Evans:

... and a cow gown, no?
Morgan Woods - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Goucho:
> (In reply to ablackett) It would be interesting to see how these 5.10 'sticky' trainers compare to a pair of old EB's held together with gaffa tape, like what a lot of us old farts used to climb in :-)

yeah climbing were 'arder back in the day.
Ramblin dave - on 15 Mar 2013
In reply to Morgan Woods:
I think the phrase you're looking for is
"EB's? Luxury! We used to dream of having EB's held together with gaffa tape..."

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