/ dovestones conditions
I've not been up there but I would guess at soggy turf covered in powder based on things as a similar height+aspect elsewhere in the Peak.
Having said that looks like routes have been logged there today!
Ok, cue the dry-tooling/winter ethics debate.
We did Waterfall Direct on Sunday. I'd agree that the turf varied but this route, as most others at Dovestones Quarries, relies on cracks and grooves with much hooking and torquing. On arrival, we were unsure on climbing it as we both consider ourselves 'ethical' winter climbers. We actually had a quick go at the first corner just in big boots no crampons and climbing in gloves but that was clearly a nonsense in the conditions! The new BMC Over the Moors guide gives very clear guidance on this particular venue on page 592 stating '..gritstone is easily damaged by axes and crampons, and this venue is a rare exception where such damage is considered acceptable. Mixed climbs should not be attempted elsewhere on gritstone.'
Having actually completed the route (a stiff IV with probable tech 5 or even 6) we were both firmly of the opinion that it was well on the right side of 'winter conditions' and that our climb was well within the bounds of 'normal mixed climbing ethics'.
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
At a bar in Llanberis an old man chimed in And I thought he was out of his head Being a young man I just laughed it off When... Read more
On Saturday 13th December Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson kicked off their Scottish winter season early by making the... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
This years ROCfest will be slightly different. We've decided to run a Climbing Festival, not just a competition! Over... Read more
The Epicentre Mega Winter Sale starts in store 9am Christmas Eve. We have a great selection of in store only deals from... Read more