/ dovestones conditions
I've not been up there but I would guess at soggy turf covered in powder based on things as a similar height+aspect elsewhere in the Peak.
Having said that looks like routes have been logged there today!
Ok, cue the dry-tooling/winter ethics debate.
We did Waterfall Direct on Sunday. I'd agree that the turf varied but this route, as most others at Dovestones Quarries, relies on cracks and grooves with much hooking and torquing. On arrival, we were unsure on climbing it as we both consider ourselves 'ethical' winter climbers. We actually had a quick go at the first corner just in big boots no crampons and climbing in gloves but that was clearly a nonsense in the conditions! The new BMC Over the Moors guide gives very clear guidance on this particular venue on page 592 stating '..gritstone is easily damaged by axes and crampons, and this venue is a rare exception where such damage is considered acceptable. Mixed climbs should not be attempted elsewhere on gritstone.'
Having actually completed the route (a stiff IV with probable tech 5 or even 6) we were both firmly of the opinion that it was well on the right side of 'winter conditions' and that our climb was well within the bounds of 'normal mixed climbing ethics'.
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