/ NEWS: Lama, Ortner, and Auer - Bold Winter Ascent
The trio climbed the formidable Schiefer Riss (VI, M7, 80-degrees) and endured friable rock with bad protection and one sleepless, bitter-cold night while making the ascent.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67930
Great stuff, but isn't Auer Italian?
Another good report on planetmountain:
Apparently not: Hansjörg Auer (* 18. Februar 1984 in Zams) ist ein österreichischer Kletterer. (wikipedia)
(Why do Americans have to be so parochial? "Hansjorg Auer—perhaps best known to Americans [for] the first free ascent of the Black Canyon's Hallucinogen Wall" He soloed the f*cking Fish fergodsake!)
And more importantly, he onsighted Strawberries!
I totally agree.
"With temperatures below -8-degrees, the Austrians settled in for a difficult night."
Hardly the coldest night a bunch of alpinists have had to endure!
"Each member of this powerful alpine trio contributed to this bold ascent. Lama climbed the first block of the route and navigated difficult terrain, while Auer skillfully surpassed the loose rock of the route's second half. Ortner, who followed behind the entire first day, led the team through unknown terrain to the summit of Schiefer Riss."
Really? Really?? Can I have a can of Red Bullshit with that???
I thought Auer was from South Tyrol? I could be wrong though.
In regard to Llama and Cerro Torre. I don't think anyone on the continent cares about the bolts up there. I think it's a very britsh/american thing. But again, I could be wrong about that! You never hear a bad word said about him in western Austria though.
> I thought Auer was from South Tyrol? I could be wrong though.
Either you are, or wikipedia is, 'cos Zams is definitely not in the Occupied Territories
> 'cos Zams is definitely not in the Occupied Territories
hah! Quite a statement.
After decades of having lived and climbed on the continent I think this is broadly true. By and large they seem to view rock as a non-sentient object devoid of moral status and therefore ethics don't apply. At least not if it makes the difference between being able to climb something great and not.
Regardless of ongoing controversy about bolting/retrobolting in Austria I sadly have to concede you are right. I still think it's unfair to put young Lama in that box though, as the whole bolting story was quite a unique case with sponsors/film team/morons involved. Maybe some of the decisions to take were out of his depth at the time - but it has all come to a good end.
Elsewhere on the site
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more
If asked to name a British female climber who stood out at a time when British women's climbing wasn't... Read more