/ NEWS: Lama, Ortner, and Auer - Bold Winter Ascent
The trio climbed the formidable Schiefer Riss (VI, M7, 80-degrees) and endured friable rock with bad protection and one sleepless, bitter-cold night while making the ascent.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67930
Great stuff, but isn't Auer Italian?
Another good report on planetmountain:
Apparently not: Hansjörg Auer (* 18. Februar 1984 in Zams) ist ein österreichischer Kletterer. (wikipedia)
(Why do Americans have to be so parochial? "Hansjorg Auer—perhaps best known to Americans [for] the first free ascent of the Black Canyon's Hallucinogen Wall" He soloed the f*cking Fish fergodsake!)
And more importantly, he onsighted Strawberries!
I totally agree.
"With temperatures below -8-degrees, the Austrians settled in for a difficult night."
Hardly the coldest night a bunch of alpinists have had to endure!
"Each member of this powerful alpine trio contributed to this bold ascent. Lama climbed the first block of the route and navigated difficult terrain, while Auer skillfully surpassed the loose rock of the route's second half. Ortner, who followed behind the entire first day, led the team through unknown terrain to the summit of Schiefer Riss."
Really? Really?? Can I have a can of Red Bullshit with that???
I thought Auer was from South Tyrol? I could be wrong though.
In regard to Llama and Cerro Torre. I don't think anyone on the continent cares about the bolts up there. I think it's a very britsh/american thing. But again, I could be wrong about that! You never hear a bad word said about him in western Austria though.
> I thought Auer was from South Tyrol? I could be wrong though.
Either you are, or wikipedia is, 'cos Zams is definitely not in the Occupied Territories
> 'cos Zams is definitely not in the Occupied Territories
hah! Quite a statement.
After decades of having lived and climbed on the continent I think this is broadly true. By and large they seem to view rock as a non-sentient object devoid of moral status and therefore ethics don't apply. At least not if it makes the difference between being able to climb something great and not.
Regardless of ongoing controversy about bolting/retrobolting in Austria I sadly have to concede you are right. I still think it's unfair to put young Lama in that box though, as the whole bolting story was quite a unique case with sponsors/film team/morons involved. Maybe some of the decisions to take were out of his depth at the time - but it has all come to a good end.
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