UKC

Eilde Canyon 27th March

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 Simon Yearsley 27 Mar 2013
Went to look at Eilde Canyon today and it's in great condition. Did the left-hand mini icefall next to ‘El Mini’ – ‘El Micro’, 8m III. Repeated ‘Hongos’ (excellent line and nice and fat). Backed off the leftmost line on Chandelier Wall – a bit hollow at the top, but the line to the right looks in good nick. Soloed one of the easier angled ice lines opposite Chandalier Wall (‘Raton Rapido’ II). Did ‘Left Hand Amigo’ (V,6), three stars and imposing launching onto the superb steeeeeep top wall. Other lines looked great and well-formed, e.g. Jumble, Andale Andale!, Zapatista and Primero Pool etc . With the weather set to continue cold, should stay in nick for a few more days at least. Not updated the topo from today, and of course someone else may have done the new lines we did today earlier this season. Copy of existing topo here at http://www.bigtreecampervans.com/eilde-canyon . Enjoy!
In reply to Simon Yearsley: If anyone does go there in the next few days (or has done any new lines there earlier), let me know and I‘ll update the topo. Unclimbed lines (I think) which are currently in nick are: are 2 lines on Chandalier Wall, Right Hand Amigo, Direct finish to Jumble Left Hand and Primero Pool Left Hand.
 neil the weak 31 Mar 2013
In reply to Simon Yearsley: Not sure if anyone else has done it already, but we climbed R Hand Amigo today. Really good steep pillar, after a cracking and very featured groove lower down. V,5/6 or so today I thought. We re-did Central Amigo too, which was fun and steep on good plastic ice (also quite goey for V). Really nice to climb fresh ice for a change. Most of the other routes have been very cooked by the sun now though, think the venue is on it's way out for the time being.
In reply to neil the weak: Nice one Neil - who were you climbing with? (email me if you want) Were the other routes on the western (true right) side out of the sun - if so, they may last a couple more days??
 neil the weak 01 Apr 2013
In reply to Simon Yearsley: W Scott Elliot. I lead R Amigo, he did Central. We were going to do the L as well but quite a large piece of it spontaneously fell off while we climbing the other routes so that put us off somewhat. The routes on the opposite side were toast, but others on the Amigo side of the canyon might still be hanging in, temps in the gorge itself were def below freezing still out of the sun.

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