/ Best alpine intro routes

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Jackspratt - on 07 Apr 2013
looking for some high quality alpine routes that end in peaks around the equivalent of scottish grade II 3*** routes only I want to get the absoloute most of my experience there and the money I'll spend getting there! cheers
Simon4 - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to Jackspratt: A very good route of that sort of standard, unlikely to be crowded but with a major feel to it is the North West face of the Aiguille du Midi, I think it is the same as the one refered to as the Mallory route.

Has a big mountain, serious feel, but is not very technically hard either on ice or rock, finishes very close to the Frendo spur, so has a cable car descent afterwards.
Simon4 - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to Jackspratt: http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54000/en/aiguille-du-midi-rectified-mallory-porter

The picture shown here is very useful, I don't know if guidbooks are any better. Take 2 axes.
JSTaylor - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to Jackspratt:
This book is worth a look for Mont Blanc area if you are looking for good quality introductory routes in the Alps. But there are many more excellent routes in other parts of the Alps!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=479
Jackspratt - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to Jackspratt: thanks very much guys! just trying to piece together plans now!
Petarghh - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to Jackspratt:

All of these based in the Cham valley.

Voie Normale - Aiguille du Tour
Petite Aiguille Vert
Cosmiques Arete
Traverse of Pointe Lachenal
Midi Plan Traverse
Traverse of the crochures
North face of the Tete Blanche
The standard punter trails on Mont Blanc (3 Monts/Gouter)

Harder but attainable (just going from your profile):
Kuffner arete
Rochefort arete traverse + Dent du Geant

Tons more I can think of..
woollardjt - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to Jackspratt:

The Mallory porter route on the midi is not technically difficult but it is a 1000m long climb at altitude. I used to live in chamonix and I have climbed the north face of the aiguille du midi via the eugster diagonal route. I would say anything on the north face of the midi is "intro"

The other routes suggested are all a good starting point.
jon on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to woollardjt:

> I would say anything on the north face of the midi is "intro"

Is that what you meant to say?
woollardjt - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to jon:

Nope I really shouldn't type this on my phone

Nothing on the midi north face is intro
Scott_vzr on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to Jackspratt:

Howabout first day doing a 3-4 pitch route on a Valley slab eg Vallorcine/Barberine. Low grade and practice multi pitch changeovers and abbing back down etc.

I have the Aigulle de Envers guide, some glorius looking rock routes at a low grade but never had the weather when I have been there, they are worth a shot.

That Camp to Camp link routes 5 and 7 had stones and debris firing down it when we watched from the Midi Mid station two summers a go in July, in the afternoon. Quite scary.....

Simon4 - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to Scott_vzr:

> That Camp to Camp link routes 5 and 7 had stones and debris firing down it when we watched from the Midi Mid station two summers a go in July, in the afternoon. Quite scary.....

Yes, but the Mallory Porter is pretty objectively safe. Not to say that woollardjt is not correct in what he said though.
Skyfall - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to Jackspratt:

Dare I say I wouldn't go to Cham.

You could walk up to the Armagellar hut, do they Dri Horlini (alpine ridge rock route - fab) and then traverse over the Weissmiss (4000m) and down the other side. Other things to do on that side. Eastern Valais, Switzerland.

If you have/hire a car you can cover a surprising distance; bear that in mind. On driving through. Stop off and do a route on Le Mirroir d'Argentine. Long alpine length rock routes, superb.
Chay - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to Jackspratt: What about the Monch/Jungfrau area- both monch and Junfrau have nice introductory routes; stay in grindelweld for the most part and have an end of trip lash up in Interlaken?

C
Ron Walker - on 07 Apr 2013
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to woollardjt)
>
> [...]
>
> Is that what you meant to say?

Love it... ;-)

woollardjt - on 08 Apr 2013
In reply to Ron Walker:
> (In reply to jon)
> [...]
>
> Love it... ;-)

Yes yes I'm a spanner for not checking the predictive text :)

No one has mentioned the Ecrin area yet, Chamonix is a great place and I always go back but there are other areas which aren't as busy or potentially as expensive.

Minneconjou Sioux - on 08 Apr 2013
In reply to Petarghh:
> (In reply to Jackspratt)
>
> All of these based in the Cham valley.
>
> Voie Normale - Aiguille du Tour
> Petite Aiguille Vert
> Cosmiques Arete
> Traverse of Pointe Lachenal
> Midi Plan Traverse
> Traverse of the crochures
> North face of the Tete Blanche
> The standard punter trails on Mont Blanc (3 Monts/Gouter)
>
> Harder but attainable (just going from your profile):
> Kuffner arete
> Rochefort arete traverse + Dent du Geant
>
> Tons more I can think of..

This.

And go to Chamonix. You can reject it later ;-)
ads.ukclimbing.com
Pero - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to Simon4:
>
> Has a big mountain, serious feel ...

I suggest that's because it is a serious route on a big mountain! No way is it an introductory route.


This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.