/ NEW ARTICLE: Norway Ice Climbing - Photo Report

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UKC Articles - on 09 Apr 2013
NG Ice Article, 4 kbIn February 2013, a British team consisting of Neil Gresham, Ian Parnell, Mark Garthwaite and Kenton Cool visited the Lyngen Alps and Lavangen, two rarely explored ice climbing destinations near to Tromso on the Arctic coast of northern Norway.

Here Neil Gresham reports with a series of superb photographs...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5373

In reply to UKC Articles: I would add to "Prior to our visit, the main development had been by a handful of local climbers as well Austrian activist, Albert Liechtfried and Kurt Astner from Italy" that actually lots of routes up there have been done by Finnish teams over the years. There was even a Finnish language 'home-made' guide to winter climbing around Lyngen from the mid-90s, if I remember compiled by Leo Määttälä who had been climbing up there from the 80s onwards. Harder things have been done in more recent years too.

It seems some annoyance has been caused in Norway over the years by foreign teams finding "new routes" up there and then spreading the news over the net. Although Norwegian ice climbers seem to have taken "hiding their light under a bushel" to extremes of modesty not seen elsewhere, so it is perhaps a bit late to moan about people claiming previously climbed routes if they never wrote a guidebook! ;) But what Finnish teams have done up there is cloaked in possibly even more mystery by a language that makes Norwegian look simple!
Nick Harvey - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to TobyA: "foreign teams finding "new routes" up there and then spreading the news over the net"

Not me! I was very upfront. It was the 'ignorant visitors' if I recall.
James Jackson on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to TobyA:

Second sentence:

The tricky part is working out what's been climbed and what hasn't, as there is so little information to go on. We apologise in advance for any first ascents that we have claimed inadvertently!
In reply to Nick Harvey: Yep, wasn't referring to you and Jim, Nick - in fact you guys did more to try and organise the available information than anyone else so far I think!

James - I know that Ian and co. had put time and effort into finding out what they could before going, and were well aware of the murky history over what had and hadn't been done before. I just wanted to add that Lyngen has long been the 'local' mountains for many Finns. I use the inverted commas as it still takes about 17 hours to drive there from Helsinki, but I think that's still closer than Oslo!
Nick Harvey - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to TobyA: And just as soon as I get round to it, I'll update the guide with the info from Ian et al. I have been saying this for weeks, mind.
Michael Gordon - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to UKC Articles:

Some great photos - looks like a brilliant trip!
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estivoautumnal - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to TobyA:
>
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> It seems some annoyance has been caused in Norway over the years by foreign teams finding "new routes"


When 4 of the biggest ego's in climbing go on holiday that is what happens.


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