/ North Wales Route Recommendation
I don't know the area well and am looking for a selection of possible routes, so we can be flexible if there is rain to dodge. I am experienced and can lead E grade climbs however the others cannot and the girls although keen are easily intimidated. I'd be really grateful for some suggestions. Single or multi-pitch, with non-exhausting approaches, severe(ish) or easier, and most importantly with bomber gear.
Many thanks John
If you have 2 cars I recommend Outside Edge/Ordinary route on Cwm Silyn + the Nantelle ridge...although that's a big day out
Otherwise Idwal Slabs?
Lots of good easy routes in the Moelwyns.
The easiest approach is supplied by the more popular routes at Tremadog and one step in the clouds and poor man's peuterey are round about severe/hard severe.There are other lower grades here too.
There are loads of good routes in the pass(Llanberris), albeit with steeper and longer approaches, and probably more intimidating exposure.Wrinkle is a good V Diff, possibly with less gear than some in that grade.Flying Buttress is an excellent V Diff.Nearby is another good V Diff with exposure,Spiral Stairs.Crackstone Rib is a really good Severe.
You probably need to get hold of either Paul Williams old guide(still published)Rock climbing in Snowdonia, or the Ground Up North Wales Rock guide.
If the weather is poor in snowdonia and possibly Tremadog, you could always try Holyhead Mountain on Anglesey.
Hi John-can I recommend Clogwyn Cyrau just above Betys y Coed. Pleasant walk in if you follow the directions carefully. Good rock with short single and 2 x pitch climbs with bomber belays at top. There are VDiffs listed but we did the excellent 3* severe Conwy corner; Long Climb direct is a 2* severe and then Jingling wall, bit more tricky at HS 4b. The crag should not feel intimidating and has easy descents with a little bit of bushwhacking. If the weather does turn bad on you then you have a quick retreat back to the coffee shops of Betys.
There will be others here that can (and will) offer greater experience and advice regarding N Wales venues, however, I'd like to chip in with...
I've had some cracking days out with relatively inexperienced climbers on Holyhead Mountain. Great walk-in and some terrific routes.
But like I said, locals can offer a greater depth of knowledge.
Thanks again. The beer garden suggestion sounds favourite ;-) but I'll probably go with one of the others. They all sound great
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