/ Top tips at busy crags
"A.... safe" helps 'A' zone in on what is about to come next.
This as opposed to "safe A" where 'A' doesn't know the call is for them until after its been given.
When pooping on belay stances, ensure to do it at the end of the first pitch, this ensures maximises your impact to other people while minimising personal risk.
This brings to mind a scene on the Penon de Ifach involving a friend of mine climbing with his wife. He was leading a long leftward trending pitch which gradually overhung more and more. His wife was belayed in a cave and couldn't see him. He was climbing on one rope and trailing another on the back of his harness so that he could haul a sac containg a couple of litres of water, picnic, shoes and waterproofs. As he approached the steepest part of the pitch another climber in his vicinity shouted 'SAFE'. On hearing this his wife immediately cast the sac into the void...
Excellent, that's a good'un.
There's a multi-authored piece in the June/July 1969 edition of Rocksport describing the first ascent of St John's Head on Hoy, which involved a certain Al of this parish. From Leo Dickinson:
"The last day went fine. Ed [Drummond] found some artificial climbing and together with Ben Campbell-Kelly reached the top just before dark. Al got bored sitting on a ledge by himself and so decided to prussik up the only rope in sight.This was all very well except that the other end was attached to my waist and I was halfway up another prussik rope. Prussiking up a rope, trailing a 200ft rope on which someone else is also prussiking, makes life rather tiresome. Al was persuaded to vacate the rope."
Let's hope Al notices that.
Elsewhere on the site
The Christmas Gift Guide at Outside.co.uk Check out our top selection of Christmas Gift Ideas for climbers,... Read more
Make the most of this months HALF PRICE OFFER on the Five Ten Guide Tennie Mid!! Designed as a hybrid approach and... Read more
If asked to name a British female climber who stood out at a time when British women's climbing wasn't... Read more
Halifax-based John Colton (see his UKC Gallery here) has an art exhibition in Courmayeur, Italy (the Italian side of Mont Blanc)... Read more
2012 saw the release of the beautiful first volume of definitive Yorkshire Gritstone climbing, produced by the YMC with Robin... Read more