/ Top tips at busy crags
"A.... safe" helps 'A' zone in on what is about to come next.
This as opposed to "safe A" where 'A' doesn't know the call is for them until after its been given.
When pooping on belay stances, ensure to do it at the end of the first pitch, this ensures maximises your impact to other people while minimising personal risk.
This brings to mind a scene on the Penon de Ifach involving a friend of mine climbing with his wife. He was leading a long leftward trending pitch which gradually overhung more and more. His wife was belayed in a cave and couldn't see him. He was climbing on one rope and trailing another on the back of his harness so that he could haul a sac containg a couple of litres of water, picnic, shoes and waterproofs. As he approached the steepest part of the pitch another climber in his vicinity shouted 'SAFE'. On hearing this his wife immediately cast the sac into the void...
Excellent, that's a good'un.
There's a multi-authored piece in the June/July 1969 edition of Rocksport describing the first ascent of St John's Head on Hoy, which involved a certain Al of this parish. From Leo Dickinson:
"The last day went fine. Ed [Drummond] found some artificial climbing and together with Ben Campbell-Kelly reached the top just before dark. Al got bored sitting on a ledge by himself and so decided to prussik up the only rope in sight.This was all very well except that the other end was attached to my waist and I was halfway up another prussik rope. Prussiking up a rope, trailing a 200ft rope on which someone else is also prussiking, makes life rather tiresome. Al was persuaded to vacate the rope."
Let's hope Al notices that.
Elsewhere on the site
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
On Saturday 13th December Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson kicked off their Scottish winter season early by making the... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
With four photos in this week's top ten, and a UKC gallery of stunning images we thought it was time we had a chat with... Read more