UKC

Top tips at busy crags

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 bpmclimb 24 Apr 2013
Include your partner's name when using climbing calls, otherwise things can go very badly wrong.
 AlH 24 Apr 2013
In reply to bpmclimb:Calling the name before the climbing call can help too:
"A.... safe" helps 'A' zone in on what is about to come next.
This as opposed to "safe A" where 'A' doesn't know the call is for them until after its been given.
 ianstevens 24 Apr 2013
In reply to bpmclimb: Sounds like someone has had a bad time recently...
needvert 24 Apr 2013
In reply to AlH:

When pooping on belay stances, ensure to do it at the end of the first pitch, this ensures maximises your impact to other people while minimising personal risk.
 jon 24 Apr 2013
In reply to bpmclimb:

This brings to mind a scene on the Penon de Ifach involving a friend of mine climbing with his wife. He was leading a long leftward trending pitch which gradually overhung more and more. His wife was belayed in a cave and couldn't see him. He was climbing on one rope and trailing another on the back of his harness so that he could haul a sac containg a couple of litres of water, picnic, shoes and waterproofs. As he approached the steepest part of the pitch another climber in his vicinity shouted 'SAFE'. On hearing this his wife immediately cast the sac into the void...
 Guy 24 Apr 2013
In reply to jon: OK that made me chuckle.
 Tom Last 24 Apr 2013
In reply to jon:

Excellent, that's a good'un.
 krikoman 24 Apr 2013
In reply to bpmclimb: Climb somewhere else

 Ian Parsons 24 Apr 2013
In reply to jon:

There's a multi-authored piece in the June/July 1969 edition of Rocksport describing the first ascent of St John's Head on Hoy, which involved a certain Al of this parish. From Leo Dickinson:

"The last day went fine. Ed [Drummond] found some artificial climbing and together with Ben Campbell-Kelly reached the top just before dark. Al got bored sitting on a ledge by himself and so decided to prussik up the only rope in sight.This was all very well except that the other end was attached to my waist and I was halfway up another prussik rope. Prussiking up a rope, trailing a 200ft rope on which someone else is also prussiking, makes life rather tiresome. Al was persuaded to vacate the rope."

Excellent!
 jon 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Ian Parsons:

Let's hope Al notices that.
 The Pylon King 24 Apr 2013
In reply to Ian Parsons:

classic
 AlH 24 Apr 2013
In reply to The Pylon King: Lol!

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