UKC

I was thinking more specifically power-endurance. My local bouldering wall does have circuits. But most fall into the too easy/too hard brackets. And I would get bored to death lapping one problem all night.

Would it be possible to train power-endurance on problems by repeatedly climbing easy boulder problems till failure? So I was thinking to closely replicate actual climbing, would need to comprise of about 40 moves. Most boulder problems are around 5 ish moves. So something like climb a problem 6 to 8 times?

What level pump is appropriate? Full on blasted forearms? Or does that move into power/strength training? Should I save a little in the gas tank to allow volume?

I guess it's hard to train for trad climbing at the bouldering wall :/ but im trying to find the best compromise

In reply to Kemics: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4289

"Boulder Laps

Choose a boulder problem a few grades within your ability level between 8 and 12 moves. You are going to attempt to repeat this problem 5 times with only the period between jumping off, chalking up and getting back on as rest. You are aiming for a level of intensity in which you are failing on around the 4th -5th attempt."

In reply to Kemics: I train power endurance by doing 4x4's. The exercise is similar to what was mentioned above, just longer and more intense.
First of all you need to find a problem roughly 1 grade below what you are climbing. For example, if your a v6 climber (F7a) you need to find a v5 (f6b+/c).
You are then going to attempt to climb the route four times in a row, attempting to not fall off.
However, while climbing the route you need to time yourself to see how long it takes.
If it takes you 4minutes to climb the route four times, you will then allow yourself four minutes rest.
Once the rest time is up, you repeat the process again! You will do this four times, so you will climb or attempt the problem 16 times.
Once complete rest for 10 minutes.
In the 10 minutes find a problem which is 3-4 grades easier. (f6aish).
Once the 10 mintues is up, repeat the process again on the new chosen route.
If you have any more left, attempt a 3rd route, just make it easier! You be surprised how your find v2 hard at this point!

Personally if the set takes me over 5 minutes (7 minutes for example) i will only allow 5 minutes rest to keep the intensity up!

Furthermore take notice of potential rest hold on the way up! The only time your going to have t rest while performing the set is on the wall. Finding a rest position may allow you to climb the problem that extra one time due to a good shake out! Plus it helps finding rests on sport routes


Just a quick note, if you are beginning to fail at climbing the route massively, use an extra hold or two, but make sure there small and don't decrease the grade of the problem by like a grade! Otherwise there is no gain!

This was the training method i was taught, and ive defiantly felt a difference and i would recommend it to anyone wishing to train power endurance. Also remember, i only do this twice a week due to its intensity, if you ever feel anything twinge jump off and leave it for that session!

Hope this has helped! Any info drop me a message
Jim.

In reply to Kemics: power is about speed so doing things fast is important. Power endurance means keeping the level of power for longer. No pump, just failure... campus up and downs for that...

vimeo.com/63348777 the last half deals with bouldering, watch the whole thing though.