Never climbed at any of the venues in Chew valley. Thinking of spending next weekend there. Any advice on what to defo go do, stay away from etc. With the Mrs, so will just want to get as much mileage in as possible up to HVS ideally want to do as many routes as poss around d -vs. long walk ins and remote is better than busy and roadside for us as a preference ??? Thanks in advance
In reply to ROBBIE YDG: if you're climbing 2 days then Standing Stones or Shining Clough (although it's not Chew it's not far away and has some great routes at those grades) would be good alternatives.
In reply to ROBBIE YDG: Most of the popular routes at shining clough are pretty clean, it depends how much rain we get later this week. dovestones will be the best bet as it gets sun and wind usually. Standing stones faces south but can be bit grubby after heavy rain.
In reply to ROBBIE YDG: Standing Stones for one day, 15 minute walk in and a remote feel. Do Vivian (S) and all the classic VSs for a very fine day out.
What about Wimberry for day 2? Laze up slowly playing on the boulders, knocking off problems before hitting the crag for Berties Bugbear, Route I, Route II, Coffin Crack and any of the famous three 'HVSs.'
Thanks guys think I'm sold on Dovestones for Saturday. My friend told me he climbed there bank holiday Monday and they were the only team there. Sounds ideal to me, not green, gets some late sun and loads of sound routes.
Keep Alderman in reserve for a gap between rain and one of the quarries may be worth a look in windy weather or with on-off showers. Dovestones is by far the best starter crag if its nice wether and dry.
In reply to ROBBIE YDG:
If you get to Dovestone and find it's minging (as happened to us a few years ago), it's an easy walk round the edge of the plateau to Rob's Rocks. As already stated this isn't as good a crag, but it is cleaner and dries faster.
In reply to Toreador: It's also hardly much further to walk back to the carpark and up to Alderman (unless you're parking in the big car-park by the dam ;-) Alderman is a more impressive unless you are just a VD leader.
In reply to Offwidth:
I'd say Rob's is better for the requirement "want to do as many routes as poss around d -vs" - though I haven't done any of the Aldermans obscurities so prepared to be proved wrong as usual.
Anyway, I'd expect Dovestone should be in fairly good condition after a few weeks of mostly dry weather.
I've taken newbies to both and Alderman's impresses more but runs out of options quicker. Both crags have extensive obscurities someone like you should have a look at. Not all in the new guide either but a lot thats missing is on Offwidth (note this includes Charnell skyline for Robs).
In reply to ROBBIE YDG: The Chew is lovely, but if it is very windy, you might want to give it a miss. As mentioned, Dovestones is great but catches the wind. Lovely in the evening though. The easiest walk in is to head out right just after you turn left past the sailing club rather than walking along the reservoir path and cut up to the crag directly.
Standing Stones faces south and is a little more sheltered if windy but has some excellent routes. It does seep after a lot of rain though.
Robs Rocks is a lovely little south facing bouldering / small routes venue and definitely away from the crowds.
You can't go wrong, but you need a Chew mindset. Some rock is a bit loose and often green but that should not detract away from the amazing setting and remote feeling of this gem of a spot.
In reply to Toreador: Grade not an issue for me, however the Mrs doesn't want to fight her way up extreme grit and I want a nice day out. More interested in as much mileage as poss, quick up and down with as many metres of grit under our belt by the end of the day the general plan. Don't care what grade, just want nice clean interesting climbing. Cheers guys