UKC

Does this climb direct through the roof or gain the lip/arête early?

In reply to hoodmonkey: im pritty sure it starts at the back then goes further back and left then you come out to gain the arete, then the crux starts.

In reply to hoodmonkey: I would go with the last post go out left moving out to the lip via some interesting footwork.

In reply to hoodmonkey:

Thanks both. So from two crimps in the back move left, along the lip and out?

In reply to hoodmonkey: The way I did 'it' was from the holds at the back of the roof make a big span left to holds at the back left of the roof, swing your feet round onto the hanging block and then using crafty foot work move out to the good hold where the new direct joins. Then make a big reach out to the finger pocket and onto the ledge and final horrible move up the arete.
I hope this helps; the problem has got a lot of climbing in it!

In reply to Al Doig:

Okay thanks for the info, this makes sense from the nosey around I had under there earlier this month. Sounds like I will have to figure out different beta for the start as big spans are not possible for men of my stature! I noticed a triangular "undercut" in the roof, which I may need to use to reach the lip.