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Topic - TRAD Climbing

robmatheson - on 27 May 2013
I read with interest about recent "TRAD" ascents and grades. Although obviously good efforts, they are NOT TRAD unless you PLACE THE GEAR ON ASCENT, traditionally speaking that is . Hanging on, in uncompromising positions and getting pumped, while placing the gear, differentiates TRAD climbing and its grading system from other types of climbing, whatever you want to call them. So an ascent, with all the runners/clips PRE PLACED is not TRAD, in style or grade. So there !! It may well be a long torturous voyage but the TRAD leader should strive to place their own gear on that lonely lead, no matter how much prior knowledge he/she may have. And ,of course,that prior knowledge is likely to increase the closer you are to your physical and mental limit and decrease to totally on- site, the closer you are to your comfort zone. So, leading a climb WITH ALL THE CLIPS IN PLACEl,no matter what the anchors are,or how spaced they are, pulls that ascent away from TRAD into the SPORT climbing realm with its own associated grades,values and traditions !!
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