/ Hard clean routes in the Lakes

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tintinandpip - on 07 Jun 2013
Don't miss out on the clean and dry routes in Cumbria. The following routes have been done this week and are clean and chalked ;
All Reecastle routes.
Western Union and Phoenix in Obsidian ( and If 6 where 9 not done this week !!) at Iron.
Sixpence, at Pavey cleaned and done by Nathan, Dave and Matt yesterday.
Bowderstone crag (Hells Wall etc) always clean.
Scafell bone dry.
Burnt crag bone dry and clean, peg in Burning desire is in good condition.
piken - on 07 Jun 2013
In reply to tintinandpip: Fantastic lakes cragging so far this year. Sixpence got sent 4 times in 2 hours yesterday. Fallen angle had multiple ascents, Capella was in great nick and is a great climb. Great work by the Keswick boys sorting out Iron. Any one going to the Lakes meet should defiantly make the most of it and get up high
Bulls Crack - on 08 Jun 2013
In reply to piken:
> (In reply to tintinandpip) Fantastic lakes cragging so far this year. Sixpence got sent 4 times in 2 hours yesterday.

Al putting their own gear in? Blimey
Goucho on 08 Jun 2013
In reply to tintinandpip:
The following routes have been done this week and are clean and chalked ;

Please tell me 'clean and chalked' doesn't mean what I think it means!!

Or has climbing by numbers reached the classic mountain crags?


AJM - on 08 Jun 2013
In reply to Goucho:

It means they have been done recently - telling people is generally considered a nice public service so that they know when rarely-done (in the grand scheme of things, although the Reecastle ones must be pretty heavily frequented anyway) routes are likely to be in the sort of condition you can climb them enjoyably without risking finding your gear slots full of mud and your face full of lichen.

Not that a face full of lichen can't be entertaining occasionally. But i wouldn't want to push the boat out on something gardening as i went.

Slightly more on topic, I did Sidewalk on Dow on Thursday, someone had done it the day before I think too, so that's now got less lichen and grime on it than it reputedly does generally - the first 3 pitches are climbably clean and will only improve with traffic, and the climbing is good too. The pitches above are easier but less good. The other stuff I did was airily trade route by comparison (Gimmer, Reecastle and Black Crag) but everything was dry and in good condition save for the permawet gunk at the bottom of Prana.
Peter Holder - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to tintinandpip: Esk buttress is also in top nick. The Cumbrian has had at least 2 ascents recently.
piken - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack:

I don't think Al was there?!!
Footy564 - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to tintinandpip:
What sort of condition do you recon Raven crag Threshthwaite Cove will be in?
Has any one been there, do you recon it'll be dirty?
a lakeland climber on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Footy564:

Could be a bit dirty as the bird restriction (Ravens) only came off at the end of May. It's not a particularly dirty crag though and most routes, certainly up to E4, can be done without any cleaning.

ALC
Glenn Sutcliffe - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Ban still in place until 12 June, (tomorrow)due to late nesting this year https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=816

But in answer to how clean, as you say pretty good crag for not getting filthy, just go for anything

Glenn
danm - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Roaring Silence & White Wizard on Scafell had ascents last few days so have been cleaned a bit. Mate cleaned Ringwraith (was filthy as sin apparently) but hadn't climbed it before I left.
Fraser on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to tintinandpip:
>
> Sixpence, at Pavey cleaned and done by Nathan, Dave and Matt yesterday.

Emm....should we know or have heard of these people? 'Cos I don't.
a lakeland climber on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Glenn Sutcliffe:

Ah, I went off the FRCC page which lists 31st May. Thanks for that.

ALC
biscuit - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Fraser:

Probably not, but it gives them a bit of public thanks for doing the work and those who do know them will know and be able to say thanks next time they see them.

awsomal - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to tintinandpip:
Went up to Dove yesterday and it has had some attention. Fast and Furious, Fear and Fascination and Dusk till Dawn were all chalked . I believe there was a strong Scottish team there at the weekend without permission!! Al.
ebdon - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to tintinandpip: Glad to see Sidewalk on Dow getting some attention I did this last year and thought it was one of the dirtiest routes I had ever climbed! - very good non the less though
Also on the subject I did String of Pearls on Gllercombe a few weeks ago which is now cleanish which i thought was a very good and very soft mountain E2.
Bulls Crack - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to tintinandpip:

Surely turn thread title around: Clean hard routes in the Lakes?
Dan Mckinlay - on 23 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Thanks for letting us know Goucho. I did this last week and found it nicely cleaned up and a great route. It would be great to know what else is being done/clean as well. Great thread.
smally - on 23 Jun 2013
In reply to awsomal: Sorry Al,
We waited for the Guardian but you didn't show up! We did have company from one ex-local though, just to keep us right. Dusk 'til Dawn was superb and it's now cleaner and had the lower off replaced.
On the topic of hard and clean, Dow was getting a spring clean from the Barrow Boys. Big thanks to them for upgrading the gear on Shining Path, Close to Critical and Genocide. Woodhouses's Arete also now clean.
Cheers Iain
AJM - on 23 Jun 2013
In reply to Dan Mckinlay:

You replied to me but said Goucho - which do you mean (if me, did you mean Sidewalk?)
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Will Sim - on 24 Jun 2013
In reply to tintinandpip: Good call, there's loads of chalked stuff up here right now. I've done the Cumbrian, Fast and Furious and Fear and Fascination in the last few weeks. Lots on Scafell East has been done also.
Will
Franco Cookson on 24 Jun 2013
In reply to Will Sim: done the west cumbrian yet?
chris m fisher - on 24 Jun 2013
In reply to Will Sim:

You missed Esk Ape being a little cleaner now too, don't forget that RP!

mikekeswick - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to tintinandpip: Shame last weekend's weather happened! :)
Will Sim - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to Franco Cookson: The West Cumbrian remains un-done, those who can't see Sellafield from their birthplace need not apply....

And yes, Esk ape is a little cleaner now, don't forget the RP, or at least don't place it to early!

Will
In reply to smally:

Do you know if anyone has been on Borderline this year?
Rich Kirby - on 01 Jul 2013
In reply to tintinandpip:

Anyone know if Dow is dry....or how long things like Tumble, Holocaust, Genocide take to dry?
a lakeland climber on 01 Jul 2013
In reply to Rich Kirby:

Dunno about current conditions but those routes dry pretty quickly, all depends on conditions of course - a warm breeze after lightish rain is going to be different from cloud hanging around after two days of downpours but usually if it looks like it's worth walking up to Dow then they'll be dry.

ALC
Glenn Sutcliffe - on 01 Jul 2013
In reply to Rich Kirby:
Hi Rich, dries faily fast on the routes you're on about (not sure about Genocide), however raining heavy here at the moment
Rich Kirby - on 01 Jul 2013
In reply to Glenn Sutcliffe: & L.C

Cheers fella's
smally - on 01 Jul 2013
In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe: Hi Tom,
I cleaned it a couple of years ago and replaced the tat on the peg and thread, so imagine it's still pretty clean. Didn't get back there last summer and missed the good spell this June, haven't heard of anyone being on it.
Looks like a warm spell forecast! Cheers Iain
In reply to smally:

Thanks Iain.
Rick Graham on 01 Jul 2013
In reply to Glenn Sutcliffe:

+ Don't expect Dow to be dry unless its had the sun on it from first light.
Rick Graham on 02 Jul 2013
In reply to smally:
Genocide was climbed about two weeks ago.
Peter said it was clean, no peg but thread OK ( and well tested on the day )
Rich Kirby - on 03 Jul 2013
In reply to Rick Graham:

Cheers Rick
In reply to awsomal:

Any passes available for Dove this weekend Al?
Glenn Sutcliffe - on 04 Jul 2013
In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe:
> (In reply to awsomal)
>
> Any passes available for Dove this weekend Al?

I admire ambition.........
In reply to Glenn Sutcliffe:
> (In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe)
> [...]
>
> I admire ambition.........

Seems like an obvious choice, having not tied in since last September ;-)
Rick Graham on 04 Jul 2013
In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe:

Hi tom

Dove. Always good for a spanking on a first visit.
Ask Glenn.
awsomal - on 05 Jul 2013
In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe: Passes are in the post. Might be worth taking some thin tape up to replace some old stuff! 10 years since the Summer of Dove!! Have a good one. Al.
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In reply to awsomal:

Cheers Al : )
Rick Graham on 05 Jul 2013
In reply to awsomal:
> (In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe) Passes are in the post. Might be worth taking some thin tape up to replace some old stuff! 10 years since the Summer of Dove!! Have a good one. Al.

Which good summer? Which year was that. I think Martin and Neil had a good one too.
In reply to Rick Graham:

2003 was the "Summer of Dove". See http://www.climbonline.co.uk/dove_crag.htm
Rick Graham on 05 Jul 2013
In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe:

QED.

Rick
Si Litchfield - on 05 Jul 2013
Boat Howe has had a big clean up over a couple of days. The rock on this crag is wonderfully rough and contrary to the guidebook it only took us 1h 30 to walk in (and its worth the walk).

NUMENOR (with direct finish) E3 6a *(**)
Without exaggeration this is one of finest routes of its grade in the Lakes with continuing interest throughout. Underrated as it is often dirty, however, many, many hours were spent scrubbing it. It has probably never been as clean as it is now and it is all chalked up ready to go. More traffic will further improve it

VOYAGER E3 5c/6a **

VOYAGER DIRECT E6 6a ***
A new route and a stunning pitch, soon to be written up on FRCC.

FANGHORN E3 5c ***
Another three star classic. Possibly not as good as Numenor (in its newly cleaned state) but this picture says it all: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=164500. Those us not as talented as Mr B will find there is more gear!

While there GROYNE STRAIN (E1) and BREAKWATER SLABS, GROOVED ARETE (VS) were also climbed.

Further down Ennerdale there are a few hard lines that have been cleaned in the last couple of years (so should be clean):

Raven Crag will probably still be clean with three routes above E4: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64388

Pillar Rock: TAPESTRY (E4) has been clean for the last two years. A new route: TOUCHING CLOTH (E6 6b) was put up last year immediately to its right and the clean streak of it can still be seen for miles (http://www.frcc.co.uk/climbs.asp?guide_id=14&crag_id=387&climb_id=3177). Furthermore above descent path the arÍte of the new route THE RAIDERS (E4 6a) will remain clean as it takes no drainage (http://www.frcc.co.uk/climbs.asp?guide_id=14&crag_id=387&climb_id=3177).
Andrew Wilson - on 06 Jul 2013
In reply to Si Litchfield:
Great news. Good effort to all those involved!
Si Litchfield - on 06 Jul 2013
In reply to Andrew Wilson:

Cheers, last weekend was a bit too damp to do what became Voyager Direct so I spent about 10 hours cleaning the buttress so that we (and others) could enjoy a good day up there climbing the existing starred routes.

Voyager Direct Start has now been written up: http://frcc.co.uk/climbs.asp?guide_id=4&crag_id=400&climb_id=3390
Andrew Wilson - on 06 Jul 2013
In reply to Si Litchfield:
Fanghorn has been high on my list for a while now. Was resigned to the fact I would need to take a brush. Just need to find time to get up there now! So you reckon numenor is worth a look too?
Graeme Read - on 06 Jul 2013
In reply to Andrew Wilson:

Numenor is without doubt one of the best E3's in the Lakes. Si cleaned it and held my ropes for me when I did it yesterday. Actually a better route than Fanghorn in our opinion, well protected, great line, great moves, and as Si says it probably is as clean now as it ever has been

Fanghorn is great too, fairly well protected and some good moves past the peg. Although described in 2 pitches it is best done in one mega pitch, almost a full ropes length!
Andrew Wilson - on 06 Jul 2013
In reply to Graeme Read:
Thanks for that. Hope to get there soon. Probably make a weekend of it and do Pillar too.
Cheers
Andy
Rick Graham on 06 Jul 2013
In reply to Graeme Read:
Good to hear you like the crag.
If you leave your sacs at the top as recommended in the guide, all routes are easily cleaned on 50m ropes especially as they are not over steep. Take 10m of spare rope for rigging.
DB also repeated (at least) Poseidon Adventure recently, he berated me for describing a skyhook placement ( which I did not use) but enjoyed the route.
Walk in from Honister or possibly Black Sail, we only went from Wasdale once.
Graeme Read - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to Rick Graham:
All those routes on the West face look fantastic too. It's incredible that a crag of this quality wasn't fully developed until only a few years ago.
Andrew Wilson - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to tintinandpip:
Was at raven crag, threshthwaite cove today. Redex, GTX, Grand Prix, top gear, boy racer and running on empty all climbed/cleanish/chalked.
In reply to tintinandpip:

Vlad is chalked to the move up from the downward pointing spike : (

(the jug at the 2.5 friend is full of water... had forgotten about that).

FF finish to Fast and Furious is clean/chalked, but I forgot my knife so the thread has not been replaced - sorry.
awsomal - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe: Vlad now in excellent nick. Sponges are now in place to keep jug dry. New lower off in position on the finish off Vlad. Pail Face is now chalked to top of the crag climbing into Bucket City (See new Guide) Harder and better than Bucket City?? Dusk Till Dawn And Bucket Dynasty well chalked. It's 10 years since the Crag was in this good a nick don't wait another ten, get up there this weekend. See you there Al.
colin struthers - on 19 Jul 2013
In reply to tintinandpip:

Was up at Neckband on Thursday. 5 different teams on the crag! Everything up to E3 seemed chalked and all the routes we did were clean. Sweeny Tod looked like it might be mossy but the holds that mattered were all fine.
mark20 - on 20 Jul 2013
Gable Crag - Dream Twister, Angel of Mercy and Snickersnack are clean and chalked
Jon Stewart - on 20 Jul 2013
In reply to mark20:
> Gable Crag - Dream Twister, Angel of Mercy and Snickersnack are clean and chalked

Sounds like a good day! I'm up at flat crags tomorrow.

Btw, have you done Bloodhound? Fantastic pitch but very bold (there's basically one runner for the first 3/4 of the route, if you don't cheat).
piken - on 21 Jul 2013
In reply to tintinandpip:
loads on Scaffel in good dry, chalked condition - including Nazgul, Shadowfax, Ringwraith, White Wizard....
ross - on 21 Jul 2013
High Performance pitch 1 at Raven Thresh. climbed yesterday. Still a bit dirty, but the holds are clean and gear slots in the crack clear. Tidied up the situ belay but sadly didn't have time to do the top pitch which looks like it would benefit from a good scrub.
Cheers, Ross.
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chris m fisher - on 21 Jul 2013
In reply to piken:

Lots getting done on the East too, chalked Shere Khan yesterday, top pitches still mossy but fine to climb.

I have some pic's of you(?) on Ringwraith, can mail them if you like?
a lakeland climber on 21 Jul 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:

There's quite a few runners on the first 3/4 of the route if you know how to place gear :-) And that doesn't involve going off route to fix anything in routes to the side.

ALC
colin struthers - on 21 Jul 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber: I thought the gear was fairly sparse but there are is a good skyhook avaialble which helps to calm things down.

On the main thread subject - was up on Pavey yesterday. Lots of climbers about. We did Cascade Direct which was clean on the hard bits and just a little dusty higher up.
Dave Ferguson - on 21 Jul 2013
In reply to Si Litchfield:
Went to Boat Howe today. Thanks for the heads up on Numenor direct, a fantastic pitch and very clean - thanks for all your hard work. Soft touch in its present clean and chalked state but must have felt hard if climbed when dirty.
We also did Scenic Cruise which was dirty but climbable (and very good) also did Prow Direct, filthy first pitch with a cleaner and pretty good top pitch. Well worth the walk, 1 hour 45 mins (we're obviously not as fit as you!) and the rock is wonderfully rough as you say, reminds me of Pillar west face.
piken - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to chris m fisher: fantastic - nathanpike@rocketmail.com
Pagan - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to mark20:

So are Sarcophagus and The Tomb; top pitches are a little mucky but perfectly doable.
Pagan - on 22 Jul 2013
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Agreed - the only bold bit on Bloodhound is the initial slab; the rest is fine.

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