/ Hard clean routes in the Lakes
All Reecastle routes.
Western Union and Phoenix in Obsidian ( and If 6 where 9 not done this week !!) at Iron.
Sixpence, at Pavey cleaned and done by Nathan, Dave and Matt yesterday.
Bowderstone crag (Hells Wall etc) always clean.
Scafell bone dry.
Burnt crag bone dry and clean, peg in Burning desire is in good condition.
Al putting their own gear in? Blimey
The following routes have been done this week and are clean and chalked ;
Please tell me 'clean and chalked' doesn't mean what I think it means!!
Or has climbing by numbers reached the classic mountain crags?
It means they have been done recently - telling people is generally considered a nice public service so that they know when rarely-done (in the grand scheme of things, although the Reecastle ones must be pretty heavily frequented anyway) routes are likely to be in the sort of condition you can climb them enjoyably without risking finding your gear slots full of mud and your face full of lichen.
Not that a face full of lichen can't be entertaining occasionally. But i wouldn't want to push the boat out on something gardening as i went.
Slightly more on topic, I did Sidewalk on Dow on Thursday, someone had done it the day before I think too, so that's now got less lichen and grime on it than it reputedly does generally - the first 3 pitches are climbably clean and will only improve with traffic, and the climbing is good too. The pitches above are easier but less good. The other stuff I did was airily trade route by comparison (Gimmer, Reecastle and Black Crag) but everything was dry and in good condition save for the permawet gunk at the bottom of Prana.
I don't think Al was there?!!
What sort of condition do you recon Raven crag Threshthwaite Cove will be in?
Has any one been there, do you recon it'll be dirty?
Could be a bit dirty as the bird restriction (Ravens) only came off at the end of May. It's not a particularly dirty crag though and most routes, certainly up to E4, can be done without any cleaning.
Ban still in place until 12 June, (tomorrow)due to late nesting this year https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=816
But in answer to how clean, as you say pretty good crag for not getting filthy, just go for anything
Roaring Silence & White Wizard on Scafell had ascents last few days so have been cleaned a bit. Mate cleaned Ringwraith (was filthy as sin apparently) but hadn't climbed it before I left.
> Sixpence, at Pavey cleaned and done by Nathan, Dave and Matt yesterday.
Emm....should we know or have heard of these people? 'Cos I don't.
Ah, I went off the FRCC page which lists 31st May. Thanks for that.
Probably not, but it gives them a bit of public thanks for doing the work and those who do know them will know and be able to say thanks next time they see them.
Went up to Dove yesterday and it has had some attention. Fast and Furious, Fear and Fascination and Dusk till Dawn were all chalked . I believe there was a strong Scottish team there at the weekend without permission!! Al.
Also on the subject I did String of Pearls on Gllercombe a few weeks ago which is now cleanish which i thought was a very good and very soft mountain E2.
Surely turn thread title around: Clean hard routes in the Lakes?
We waited for the Guardian but you didn't show up! We did have company from one ex-local though, just to keep us right. Dusk 'til Dawn was superb and it's now cleaner and had the lower off replaced.
On the topic of hard and clean, Dow was getting a spring clean from the Barrow Boys. Big thanks to them for upgrading the gear on Shining Path, Close to Critical and Genocide. Woodhouses's Arete also now clean.
You replied to me but said Goucho - which do you mean (if me, did you mean Sidewalk?)
You missed Esk Ape being a little cleaner now too, don't forget that RP!
And yes, Esk ape is a little cleaner now, don't forget the RP, or at least don't place it to early!
Do you know if anyone has been on Borderline this year?
Anyone know if Dow is dry....or how long things like Tumble, Holocaust, Genocide take to dry?
Dunno about current conditions but those routes dry pretty quickly, all depends on conditions of course - a warm breeze after lightish rain is going to be different from cloud hanging around after two days of downpours but usually if it looks like it's worth walking up to Dow then they'll be dry.
Hi Rich, dries faily fast on the routes you're on about (not sure about Genocide), however raining heavy here at the moment
I cleaned it a couple of years ago and replaced the tat on the peg and thread, so imagine it's still pretty clean. Didn't get back there last summer and missed the good spell this June, haven't heard of anyone being on it.
Looks like a warm spell forecast! Cheers Iain
+ Don't expect Dow to be dry unless its had the sun on it from first light.
Genocide was climbed about two weeks ago.
Peter said it was clean, no peg but thread OK ( and well tested on the day )
Any passes available for Dove this weekend Al?
> Any passes available for Dove this weekend Al?
I admire ambition.........
> I admire ambition.........
Seems like an obvious choice, having not tied in since last September ;-)
Dove. Always good for a spanking on a first visit.
Cheers Al : )
Which good summer? Which year was that. I think Martin and Neil had a good one too.
NUMENOR (with direct finish) E3 6a *(**)
Without exaggeration this is one of finest routes of its grade in the Lakes with continuing interest throughout. Underrated as it is often dirty, however, many, many hours were spent scrubbing it. It has probably never been as clean as it is now and it is all chalked up ready to go. More traffic will further improve it
VOYAGER E3 5c/6a **
VOYAGER DIRECT E6 6a ***
A new route and a stunning pitch, soon to be written up on FRCC.
FANGHORN E3 5c ***
Another three star classic. Possibly not as good as Numenor (in its newly cleaned state) but this picture says it all: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=164500. Those us not as talented as Mr B will find there is more gear!
While there GROYNE STRAIN (E1) and BREAKWATER SLABS, GROOVED ARETE (VS) were also climbed.
Further down Ennerdale there are a few hard lines that have been cleaned in the last couple of years (so should be clean):
Raven Crag will probably still be clean with three routes above E4: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64388
Pillar Rock: TAPESTRY (E4) has been clean for the last two years. A new route: TOUCHING CLOTH (E6 6b) was put up last year immediately to its right and the clean streak of it can still be seen for miles (http://www.frcc.co.uk/climbs.asp?guide_id=14&crag_id=387&climb_id=3177). Furthermore above descent path the arÍte of the new route THE RAIDERS (E4 6a) will remain clean as it takes no drainage (http://www.frcc.co.uk/climbs.asp?guide_id=14&crag_id=387&climb_id=3177).
Great news. Good effort to all those involved!
Cheers, last weekend was a bit too damp to do what became Voyager Direct so I spent about 10 hours cleaning the buttress so that we (and others) could enjoy a good day up there climbing the existing starred routes.
Voyager Direct Start has now been written up: http://frcc.co.uk/climbs.asp?guide_id=4&crag_id=400&climb_id=3390
Fanghorn has been high on my list for a while now. Was resigned to the fact I would need to take a brush. Just need to find time to get up there now! So you reckon numenor is worth a look too?
Numenor is without doubt one of the best E3's in the Lakes. Si cleaned it and held my ropes for me when I did it yesterday. Actually a better route than Fanghorn in our opinion, well protected, great line, great moves, and as Si says it probably is as clean now as it ever has been
Fanghorn is great too, fairly well protected and some good moves past the peg. Although described in 2 pitches it is best done in one mega pitch, almost a full ropes length!
Thanks for that. Hope to get there soon. Probably make a weekend of it and do Pillar too.
Good to hear you like the crag.
If you leave your sacs at the top as recommended in the guide, all routes are easily cleaned on 50m ropes especially as they are not over steep. Take 10m of spare rope for rigging.
DB also repeated (at least) Poseidon Adventure recently, he berated me for describing a skyhook placement ( which I did not use) but enjoyed the route.
Walk in from Honister or possibly Black Sail, we only went from Wasdale once.
All those routes on the West face look fantastic too. It's incredible that a crag of this quality wasn't fully developed until only a few years ago.
Was at raven crag, threshthwaite cove today. Redex, GTX, Grand Prix, top gear, boy racer and running on empty all climbed/cleanish/chalked.
Vlad is chalked to the move up from the downward pointing spike : (
(the jug at the 2.5 friend is full of water... had forgotten about that).
FF finish to Fast and Furious is clean/chalked, but I forgot my knife so the thread has not been replaced - sorry.
Was up at Neckband on Thursday. 5 different teams on the crag! Everything up to E3 seemed chalked and all the routes we did were clean. Sweeny Tod looked like it might be mossy but the holds that mattered were all fine.
Sounds like a good day! I'm up at flat crags tomorrow.
Btw, have you done Bloodhound? Fantastic pitch but very bold (there's basically one runner for the first 3/4 of the route, if you don't cheat).
loads on Scaffel in good dry, chalked condition - including Nazgul, Shadowfax, Ringwraith, White Wizard....
Lots getting done on the East too, chalked Shere Khan yesterday, top pitches still mossy but fine to climb.
I have some pic's of you(?) on Ringwraith, can mail them if you like?
There's quite a few runners on the first 3/4 of the route if you know how to place gear :-) And that doesn't involve going off route to fix anything in routes to the side.
On the main thread subject - was up on Pavey yesterday. Lots of climbers about. We did Cascade Direct which was clean on the hard bits and just a little dusty higher up.
Went to Boat Howe today. Thanks for the heads up on Numenor direct, a fantastic pitch and very clean - thanks for all your hard work. Soft touch in its present clean and chalked state but must have felt hard if climbed when dirty.
We also did Scenic Cruise which was dirty but climbable (and very good) also did Prow Direct, filthy first pitch with a cleaner and pretty good top pitch. Well worth the walk, 1 hour 45 mins (we're obviously not as fit as you!) and the rock is wonderfully rough as you say, reminds me of Pillar west face.
So are Sarcophagus and The Tomb; top pitches are a little mucky but perfectly doable.
Agreed - the only bold bit on Bloodhound is the initial slab; the rest is fine.
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