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Topic - North West Scotland Grades

Fiend - on 21 Jun 2013
This list is objectively graded for balanced climbers with a breadth of experience cragging around Scotland, England and Wales and does not take into account the mis-guided machinations of overly-familiar locals, Aberdonians, headpointers / side-runner users, the 90% of Scots who can't jam, anyone with an egotistical point to prove about grades, anyone who thinks that gritstone is the default benchmark of sensible grading, boulderers, anyone who is over six foot and under 11 stone, or any other such anomolous weirdos.

It is guaranteed to be 100% scientifically and factually accurate.

Stiff:
Rubblestiltskin, Diabeg - steep, committing, hollow in the middle
Northumberland Wall, Diabeg - solid and tricky on the first pitch
Animal Magic, Diabeg - very bold
E2 5b left of In The Pink, Loch Tollaidh - 6a start, 5c middle
Strip Teaser, Loch Tollaidh - continually bold and lonely
Rock Bottom, Loch Tollaidh - hard 6a crux
How The West Was Won, Gruinard Crag (at E3 5c) - should be soft E4 6a as it originally was
Barrel Of Fun, Inverianvie Crag - bold and pokey
Walking On Water, Mungasdale Crag - pumpy as fcuk despite the big flake
Huffin Puffin, Reiff (at E1 5c) - E2, steep
Moronic Inferno, Reiff (at E2 5b) - E3 and the second hardest of the cracks on this wall
Split Personality, Reiff (at E3 5c) - E4 with poor holds and fiddly pro at crux
The Good, The Bad, The Ugly, Reiff (at E1 5b) - tricky
Inertia, Inverpolly - as hard as the E3s
Moondust, The Balcony - bold and committing
The Goat Of Barten, Creag Gharb Mhor (at E2 5c) - 6a start
The Swirl, Creag An Fithich - desperate finish
Monkey Man, Sheigra - very steep with pumpy and arduous protection low down
Above The Blue, Sheigra - hard
GLOP, Sheigra - hard even at E3 5c
Bloodlust Direct, Sheigra - steep and fiddly pro, also the worst E2 on the face
Black Edge, Sheigra - doesn't follow any feature described

Solid:
Rough Justice, Diabeg - tricky slab
Bold As Brass, Stone Valley - thin crux
Boldered Out, Loch Tollaidh - hard start although easy above
Heave-Ho, Loch Tollaidh - two solid 6a sections
Hollow Heart, Loch Tollaidh - pumpy and committing finish
Arial, Loch Maree Crag - colossally draining
Armburger, Beach Crag - pumpy and not always easy pro
Radical Jewish, Road Crag - thin and poky
Genesis, Mungasdale Crag - stiff and reachy
Skinhead Violence, Ardmair - harder than it looks
If You See Kay, Reiff - sustained and pumpy
Strongbow, Reiff (at E1 5b) - solid at this grade
Street Surfer, Reiff - tricky start
Wall Of Silence, Reiff - nowhere near a soft touch to onsight without knowing what the holds and gear will be like
Brave Heart, Reiff - easy E2 but hard 5b
Starstreak Enterprise, The Balcony - good value
Blind Faith Direct, Sheigra - hard finish
Under The Pink, Sheigra - thin finish
Land Of The Dancing Dead, Creag Shormalie - powerful crux
Teacher's Pet, School Crag - powerful

Spot-on:
Nasal Abuse, Seana Mheallan -
The Age Of Confusion, Seana Mheallan - bouldery but obvious
Edge Of Enlightenment, Seana Mheallan - crux is the E2 bit which is E3
The Black Streak, Diabeg - standard
Porpoise Pun, Diabeg - bold not sustained
Kermit Direct, Loch Tollaidh - standard
Water Lily, Loch Tollaidh - standard
Buena Vista, Loch Tollaidh - standard
Heretic, Tollie Crag - only bold but quite a lot of it
The Bug, Tollie Crag - standard
Scoobie Dubh, Post Crag - good gear but hard blind finish
Trojan, Road Crag - standard
Pistolero, Gruinard Crag (at E2 5c) - standard
Red John Of The Battles, Gruinard Crag - standard
The Missing Link, Lochan Dubh Crag - standard
E2 5c left of Crab Crack, Jetty Buttress - steady moves but fiddly gear on slab
Right Charlie, Jetty Buttress - standard
South West Arete, Jetty Buttress - standard, committing for a couple of moves
Kneel And Pray, Mungasdale Crag - standard
The Road To Calvary, Mungasdale Crag - standard, pumpy fare
Primitive Dance, Ardmair - standard
Skeletons, Ardmair (at E3 5c) - definitely not easier than it looks
Space Monkey, Ardmair - intimidating but fair
Buried Treasure, Ardmair - thrutchy but normal
Old Dog, New Tricks, Ardmair - committing finish but steady
Sonique, Reiff (at E4 5c) - spot on at this grade for being steep and pumpy
Westering Home, Reiff - standard, overrated
Channering Worm, Reiff - bold and bouldery but obvious
Orange Wall, Reiff - standard
Seal Song, Reiff - standard, tricky but safe
Clam Jam, Reiff - standard
Calum's Rest, Inverpolly - standard
Gneiss Pump, Inverpolly - standard
Galactica, The Balcony - standard
Moral Turpentine, Rhiconich - standard
Two Colours Red, Rhiconich - standard
Sapphires, Creag An Fithich - standard
Cod And Chips, Fisherman's View - standard
Juggernaut, Sheigra - standard
Bloodlust, Sheigra - standard
Wanderings, Sheigra - standard
Muir Wall, Sheigra - standard
Fingers, Sheigra - standard
Bardo Thodol, Creag Shormalie - standard

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