/ Bouldering - Mastery or One-offism?
I don't think the elite do laps of their hard problems. I think most are just thankful they've managed it once!
>"Is there anything I can do to increase chances of repeating stuff?"
The obvious answer is, "get stronger"!
...but if you did you'll not be repeating stuff, you'll be not repeating harder stuff.
I guess its a sad fact that the road to improvement is through strength which for me seems to be a long process! Was hoping there might be some other sort of jiggery pokery that was only known to a select few!
Memorise the sequence with aid of video playback.
That being said, once you've climbed something once you do relieve a lot of the mental pressure of the initial send which can make it easier. Id say the net effect is probably that the problem becomes slightly more doable, though not significantly.
There is something called "muscle memory". Basically means it should be easier for your body to repeat movement (a sequence) after having done it successfully.
In the end I think improvement always come through practice, I guess improvement will just shift the top end of your ability also.. But might be a nice feeling to be struggeling to repeat harder stuff.
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