/ Bouldering - Mastery or One-offism?

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toasted - on 22 Jun 2013
My rather clumsy title is asking this question about elite boulderers. When they climb something at the top end of their ability, whatever is state of the art at the moment - 8C?/V15?, are they able to repeat the line after sufficient rest. ie. having done the moves and knowing how they feel. I only say this because at my pathetic attempts at bouldering I can sometimes do a problem at the limit of my ability but then it seems really difficult to repeat. I put it down to aspects such as psyche, encouragement available and not thinking too much about the moves - just doing them. Is this similar for the elite boulderers? Is there anything I can do to increase chances of repeating stuff?
JLS on 22 Jun 2013
In reply to toasted:

I don't think the elite do laps of their hard problems. I think most are just thankful they've managed it once!
JLS on 22 Jun 2013
In reply to toasted:

>"Is there anything I can do to increase chances of repeating stuff?"

The obvious answer is, "get stronger"!

...but if you did you'll not be repeating stuff, you'll be not repeating harder stuff.
toasted - on 22 Jun 2013
In reply to JLS:
I guess its a sad fact that the road to improvement is through strength which for me seems to be a long process! Was hoping there might be some other sort of jiggery pokery that was only known to a select few!
JLS on 22 Jun 2013
In reply to toasted:

>"jiggery pokery"

Memorise the sequence with aid of video playback.
remus - on 22 Jun 2013
In reply to toasted: Speaking broadly, I don't think doing a problem once necessarily makes it easy to repeat. The example that springs to mind is Paul Robinson on the story of two worlds, on his first time round he dabbed a tree while topping out. Took him quite a few days of attempts to then re climb it sans dab.

That being said, once you've climbed something once you do relieve a lot of the mental pressure of the initial send which can make it easier. Id say the net effect is probably that the problem becomes slightly more doable, though not significantly.
robin mueller - on 23 Jun 2013
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douwe - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to toasted:
There is something called "muscle memory". Basically means it should be easier for your body to repeat movement (a sequence) after having done it successfully.
In the end I think improvement always come through practice, I guess improvement will just shift the top end of your ability also.. But might be a nice feeling to be struggeling to repeat harder stuff.

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