/ Finger training with dodgy shoulders
I'm thinking of getting some of those Metollius rock rings and attaching them to the seated row weight machine at my gym then holding them statically with shoulders pulled down and in and arms bent.
Hopefully thisíll let me train my fingers without putting too much strain on my shoulders. Anyone tried this? Any obvious reason why not? Any other thoughts?
(And Iíve got a grip master and even intend to use it, but this doesnít seem very climbing specific Ė squeezing rather than static gripping.)
Sorry to state the bloody obvious; but why don't you sort out your "dodgy" shoulders?
Go see a good physio that has some climbing knowledge and do all the exercises that they recommend; then worry about your fingers being weak i.e. train the weakest link, which at the moment is certainly your shoulders.
The limiting factor when I do climb is finger strength (as long as I avoid really powerful stuff).
This should allow to fully support both shoulders while overloading your grip. Performing 3 sets of hangs on each arm, with each hang lasting 5-10 seconds and plenty of rest (60s) between hangs shouldn't be too much strain on your shoulders.
in what way are your shoulders dodgy ? thick bar and plate pinches would probably be safer and work well although sorting out your shoulders should be a priority
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