/ Finger training with dodgy shoulders
I'm thinking of getting some of those Metollius rock rings and attaching them to the seated row weight machine at my gym then holding them statically with shoulders pulled down and in and arms bent.
Hopefully thisíll let me train my fingers without putting too much strain on my shoulders. Anyone tried this? Any obvious reason why not? Any other thoughts?
(And Iíve got a grip master and even intend to use it, but this doesnít seem very climbing specific Ė squeezing rather than static gripping.)
Sorry to state the bloody obvious; but why don't you sort out your "dodgy" shoulders?
Go see a good physio that has some climbing knowledge and do all the exercises that they recommend; then worry about your fingers being weak i.e. train the weakest link, which at the moment is certainly your shoulders.
The limiting factor when I do climb is finger strength (as long as I avoid really powerful stuff).
This should allow to fully support both shoulders while overloading your grip. Performing 3 sets of hangs on each arm, with each hang lasting 5-10 seconds and plenty of rest (60s) between hangs shouldn't be too much strain on your shoulders.
in what way are your shoulders dodgy ? thick bar and plate pinches would probably be safer and work well although sorting out your shoulders should be a priority
Elsewhere on the site
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more
I am Matthew Phillips, I'm nearly 14 and I was born without my right arm below the elbow. I started climbing at taster... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more