2. Is there an ab station at the top? If my mate and I both want to lead it same day, is the ab down to strip gear definitely on?
3. Is this guy definitely on Darius? I did Delicatessen on Sunday and did a fair bit of sneaky peaking and couldn't quite locate this pic onto the route. The run out here looks terrifying!
50m ropes will do, but you won't have enough to get to the tree, which is far back, to belay. You'd be better off leaving another rope at the top for the belay.
No there isn't. See above.
Dunno sorry. The first crux of Darius is well protected, the top crux, above the old bolt, is bold.
We always used to pull one rope though to use as the belay.
1. 50m won't reach the tree, I did with 60s, I doubt 55 would, maybe use another rope at the top.
2. I abbed off the tree and cleaned so my partner could lead it. No problem.
3. The top section was definitely a bit "out there", can't totally locate the photo from memory though.
3. He is, I was there. He didn't really spend any time looking for gear, he did it the old skool way... I.e place the odd runner and get on with it. I think the chap is pretty good like.
I don't recall anything on darious feeling bold. Run out at the top but nothing major and certainly not bold. It's got tons of gear, you will probably run out of gear by the top anyway.
Yes - I think! That looks like the very thin flake near the top of Robert Brown in the background, and the clump of grass looks a bit like where you stand to reach up and clip the bolt. That would mean he's at the top of the left-facing flake/groove (which you can't actually see from this direction) with gear available if you need it. At a guess the photo was taken from the belay ledge on Original Route.
If you both want to lead it you could do so then pull both ropes up. You could then ab down from the ab point (which is not on top of the route). Your mate could then lead it on your gear and you second him. Or you stash a rope at the top to use to set up an abseil and use it to abseil and strip the route.
The route is very well protected, there's gear everywhere, I took 20 qds and had used about 15 of them by the time I got 35/40 metres up.
I think you could just reach the top with 50s but it'd be tight. 55s would be ok but you wont reach the big tree. With 60s you will reach it to belay by untying from one rope, but possibly not to ab unless you have something to extend a sling on the tree by q few metres.
When I first tried it in 2010 (another big fall on to the bolt, Ive been back since to do it cleanly), we did exactly as you describe with two of us doing it and abbing for gear. We found some nuts we were happy enough to trust right by the edge of the crag. However obviously the big tree would be better :)
I think the perspective probably tricking you in that picture. You can lace it all the way up until past the top crux, but generally it is sustained and very long, so it helps greatly to run it out by a few metres between quickdraws and just make sure what you place is bomber. The holds are generally good and the gear very obvious so this is generally achievable. Be very careful with rope drag. The weight alone of the ropes is a nightmare near the top.
PS not certain about the photo but if anywhere it is on the bit just approaching the mid-height scoop after you have crossed debauchery.
Don't think so. The photo is taken looking diagonally downwards; beyond and below the climber you can see the common belay ledge of Robert Brown, Debauchery and Delicatessen - at least I assume that's what all the shrubbery is on. Delicatessen traverses horizontally right from this ledge to cross Darius at the mid-height scoop you mention. Therefore the climber must be well above this.
Don't stress about it being run out, there's probably more gear on Darius than you can carry!
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