/ NEWS: New Hoy E7s for Muskett and Randall

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC News - on 09 Jul 2013
Tom Randall, working and cleaning the line of Dan Dare, Rora Head, Hoy, 4 kbCalum Muskett and Tom Randall have just made the First Ascent (FA) of two new stunning E7s on a quick-hit trip to Scotland. First up, the pair both lead Dan Dare, E7 6b, on Rora Head, on the Isle of Hoy. Calum then made the FA of a very bold new route at E7 6a, climbing an arete, near the village of Mid-Clyth...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68195
Daniel Heath - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Great Effort, looks like cool rock
aln - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: Where's the Mid Clyth E7?
Eric9Points - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to aln:

E7 6a?

Hmmm, are there any other E7 6a's in the country? Without trying to be disparaging at all I wonder how something that's 6a could get such a high E grade? Makes me wonder whether we should just have E1 to E5 for any route, regardless of technical grade, E1 being unsustained and well protected, E5 being sustained at the technical grade and with no protection and a death fall.

I'm sure this was a great effort regardless of my quibble about the E grade.
Michael Gordon - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to Eric9Points:
>
> Hmmm, are there any other E7 6a's in the country?
>

There's one aptly named 'Rubble' (Gogarth).
aln - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to aln:
> (In reply to UKC News) Where's the Mid Clyth E7?

Ths Mid Clyth I know of is a sea cliff area on the East coast of Caithness. Is there another mid clyth I'm unaware of?
pasbury on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Eric9Points:

Sounds like it's sustained 6a with 2 skyhooks, don't know how snappy the rock is. I think Mr Muskett knows a thing or two about grading bold routes.
centurion05 on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Eric9Points:

The only other E7 6a I know about is rubble in wen zawn.
Dangerous Dave - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Eric9Points:
> (In reply to aln)
>
> E7 6a?
>
> I wonder how something that's 6a could get such a high E grade? Makes me wonder whether we should just have E1 to E5 for any route, regardless of technical grade, E1 being unsustained and well protected, E5 being sustained at the technical grade and with no protection and a death fall.
>

Sustained 6a climbing with groundfall potential sounds like sensible grading to me. Why does the grading of this route warrent changing the grading system to something much worse? The grade E7 6a tells you all that you need to know in my opinion.
niallk on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Nice socks. I'm guessing the midgies were out.

And good effort!
aln - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Eric9Points:
> (In reply to aln)
>
> E7 6a?
>
> Hmmm, are there any other E7 6a's in the country?
> I'm sure this was a great effort regardless of my quibble about the E grade.

I have no problem with the grade, I'd just like some details about the route.
Fiend - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to aln:

I emailed Calum, it's the arete between Giant and Maelstorm, i.e. the one that's visible in the Giant photo in the guidebook.

Hopefully will put the mighty Mid Clyth on the international map :)
aln - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to Fiend:
> (In reply to aln)
>
> I emailed Calum, it's the arete between Giant and Maelstorm, i.e. the one that's visible in the Giant photo in the guidebook.
>
> Hopefully will put the mighty Mid Clyth on the international map :)

I've climbed Giant and Maelstrom (photo in my gallery). Oh that's a blank arete, is there any gear? And you're right about Mid Clyth, superb area.
ads.ukclimbing.com
morganator - on 24 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: The Cad is E6 6a without the bolt and you can, and many people have, take a fall from very high up and end up in space, as the gear is bomber (but yes a loooong way below). So E7 6a sounds fair enough to me.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.