/ climbing and best options due to accident

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razmitaz - on 14 Jul 2013
Hi there,

a few years back [well 5] I had 30ft fall free climbing. It ended with the splintered and pulverised ankle bones in one leg. 1 helicopter ride and 2 separate surgeries and 6 months rehab left me with a cane for next 6 months. I basically gave up on the climbing as an option, I miss it. Even though I walk now without aid most of the time my movement is well about 50% of my good one. Pain varies from minor too ouch. I can run / job for a small distance like, lets say Iíll not be doing the 100meters at a jog. This does end with a day or two with major pain and in worst cane again.

Basically miss it and as been away awhile was really wondering if i could say get back climbing indoors well bouldering. If so something like a sturdy support as it can just buckle walking down the road might help. Any suggestions? And on another key boots that would accommodate support and add some to this.
I know what I did was stupid and it could have been so much worse. Any suggestions will be very much appreciated.

razmitaz
Morgan Woods - on 14 Jul 2013
In reply to Raz:

Could you try a bit of hill walking to start? I was coming back from a knee injury and did a few nice long days in the Welsh hills using a collapsible ski pole for support. I picked some easy long routes on Tryfan and Ogof and they seemed to suit. At least if you don't manage the route then you're still getting out into some nice terrain.
JLS on 14 Jul 2013
In reply to Raz:

>"Any suggestions?"

Go climbing, do what you can. Bouldering sounds a bad idea, bumbly trad and easy sport should get you moving again...
Jamie B - on 14 Jul 2013
In reply to Raz:

> I know what I did was stupid and it could have been so much worse.

Sounds like what you were doing (climbing unroped?) was solo climbing, not free climbing. Free climbing is something else, calling solo climbing free climbing creates confusion.

Sorry for the tangent, hope your recovery goes well!
drysori - on 14 Jul 2013
In reply to Raz:

If you struggle to jog 100m due to pain then it sounds like bouldering would be a bad idea, but you're obviously going to have a better idea than me about that. Improving would seem to be the way to start, and in trainers if you struggle to get a support into rockshoes.

At any rate, with due care you're only going to find out by doing it! Good luck.
drysori - on 14 Jul 2013
In reply to Wil Treasure:

"Improving" shoulds read "top roping"! (Autocorrect) Not sure how you would improve without first starting!
johnjanuary on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to razmitaz: In 2007 after months of pain I had a total knee replacement,(TKR). After more months of carefully structured hard work, exercising, swimming and being careful I started climbing again by going to my local wall, Kendal, and doing easy low level traverses. This allows you to build up problems gradually and if you need to you just step off the wall, rest, and start again. I was climbing well and ski-ing within 6 months of the Op. Unfortunately I am now heading for another TKR but intend to follow the same procedure and hope to be climbing again as soon after the op as I can. Hope you also return to climbing soon. Good Luck.
razmitaz - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to Jamie B: cheers yes was on night shift with out sleep sorry i did use the wrong word sorry
razmitaz - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to razmitaz: cheers all i was thinking indoor bouldering. with that i was wondering if any good supports or high rock boots out there that folks had tride
dr_botnik - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to razmitaz: toproping would still be safer, less chance of impact from falls and not as stenuous single moves. I'd look at getting a hightop style shoe like this http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11w/ms-ab-fiveten-grandstone
Mike00010 - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to razmitaz:

Not sure I'd recommend bouldering just in case you come off as your then going to put a very sudden shock through the ankle. I'd probably go for some easy trad climbing then you can focus on the experience and getting out there rather than getting tempted to push yourself. If it's painful just after a short jog you might be better with swimming for a while first to get some more strength back then try some easy climbing after.
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ice.solo - on 18 Jul 2013
In reply to razmitaz:

Ive climbed rock and indoors in spantiks and baturas a few times and found them really good. Better than stickies in some ways.

They offer good ankle support, so maybe consider some alpine boots.

At least if any looks at you funny you can say youre training for trango in winter or something.

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