/ Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands
Anyone can clarify oe have an opinion on the grade it's much appreciated!
It's pretty much a long, sustained VDiff. I didn't find the supposedly 4b moves at the top to be very 4b. They certainly weren't massively out of keeping with the rest of the route, or anything to get too worried about. If you can make it that far then you should be fine I'd have thought.
I'd say that HVD is right but with some provisos; if wet you'll need several grades in hand. If your routefinding and multipitch/general mountaineering skills aren't up to scratch it might quickly become a bit of an epic,
The crux is a bit runout and on typical Lliwedd non-positive holds.
Its S 4b for the Red Wall crux (worrying when wet) and mostly VD otherwise but with some tricky route finding in places.
Try to identify the line of the route on the approach. Once you get to the bottom of the crag it isn't so obvious. It probably says that in the guide, but its well worth taking a few minutes to identify the start.
I managed to get us on entirely the wrong line last year, I don't think we touched any of the proper route and I would estimate three of our early pitches to have been high end HVS. Have not worked out what on earth we were on but I thought it worth mentioning for the OP's sake, in case he's flippantly thinking "yeah yeah we'll get the right line". Lliwedd is known for being hard to route-find. We were too far right.
Several books say "don't worry about the EXACT line, it's all much of a muchness", which caused me to, er, not worry about the EXACT line. Oops.
yes! route finding is a bastard.
the quartz babe for example; you can't see it until you've climbed above/ past it!
It was starting to rain when I got there so I climbed that bit as fast as possible!
VDiff (traditional) seems the right grade to me.
> yes! route finding is a bastard.
> the quartz babe for example; you can't see it until you've climbed above/ past it!
I don't remember seeing any quartz babes!
I was expecting a routefinding nightmare, so I was pleasantly surprised when it all seemed rather obvious to me. I'm clearly some kind of routefinding wizard.
In my case I got flustered and rushed trying to get on before another party. Very easy to convince yourself that what you have in front of you matches the description in the book.
> Very easy to convince yourself that what you have in front of you matches the description in the book.
That will one's epitaph...:)
Thanks for all the advice!
Judging by all the mentions it's getting, you'll just be able to follow the queue. Which won't help if the team at the front are off route of course ;-)
I found the route fitted the description very well until I got established on Longlands. Then there were so many grooves it all got a bit vague. However by just carrying on up I ended up at the pretty unmistakeable final crack, which I found harder than expected.
Overall it was a great day out, good luck and enjoy!
I think we were on route when my mate led and I must have gone of it every pitch I led!
There were times where I was run out, on poor rock and doing stuff you shouldn't be doing at V.Diff/S. Scared the beejesus out of me at times.
Keep some in hand, as said above. Mostly, enjoy safely!
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