UKC

I am currently in the process of starting up a new indoor Bouldering /Climbing wall in Essex and would be interested to know what the majority of you love the most! It would be really easy to put in just what I love myself..but its not about me! I am looking at ideas for high bouldering as height is limited. As I am still at the design stage I would really appreciate any input/ ideas that any of you climbers have? Thanks for taking the time to read this.

In reply to Victorine: Hopefully your going to build a climbing wall that is multi - dimensional, that incorporates , slab and overhang that is over 10 metres. A Bouldering area that is bigger that a postage stamp. Maybe a mix between The Reach and White Spider ( I used these walls because you probably know them) both have some good features. Have routes set for kids, massive market that is not seriously being targeted by any of the operators in Essex. Look at sensible pricing. Cafe that is value for money, with good food. The list could go on, this is a very short version of my thoughts.
Please disregard as you see fit.

All the best with your project.

Me.


Cheers
Me

In reply to Victorine:

Based in what area of Essex? There's currently a wall in Harlow but has limited bouldering.

Designing the best wall in the world is nothing without good setters!

In reply to Victorine:

I agree that it's all about the setters.

And the music. Gotta have music

In reply to Victorine:

If height is limited and you're leaning towards bouldering, definitely look at overhangs/roofs to make it more interesting. Having a layout that allows long traversing routes is good too.

If you want to use some Essex based climbers, let me know

In reply to Victorine: I'm moving to essex in a couple of weeks. Where will this be? which town?

From bouldering I would want to see a variety of angles and not just steep overhanging. A good traversing wall at 10-15 degrees overhanging for circuits would suit me because I am not good enough for a 45 degree I also think that rather than just being about training a variety of angles would mean an opportunity to set interesting problems in a variety of angles.

Also the more three d the better.

In reply to Victorine:

I'm a big fan of a decent, long roof. Though I don't actually see many people using them. I was a little let down that The Depot recently got rid of theirs. I love the one they have in Kendal.

What's the general consensus on topping out? Some walls (again, Kendal and I think one of the London walls I went to that's closed down now) have certain problems where you can top out. I found it a nice novelty but the regulars seemed to just hit the last grip and jump off, so it may be a waste.

Rokt in Brighouse have some 'interesting' layouts, have a look here:

http://www.rokt.co.uk/rokt_vt2/indoor-climbing-tour.htm

The "Roktagon" room (second and third down) is basically a free-standing structure that you can climb around, with a little seating area in one corner.

It's certainly unique but I think they have difficulty in setting it. Even when they get some "big name" setters in the problems either feel ridiculously difficult, really easy, or far too short. They are getting better though.

Even if it's not the best to climb on though it's certainly a draw to the centre.

In reply to Kieran_John:

I suspect that a lot of people (eg me) find them intimidating if they're high up, because the prospect of being 4m up and losing your hands while your body's horizontal and you've got a solid heel or toe hook on something isn't particularly appetising. Nearer the ground (ie at about head height) is more user friendly - you can get spotted if you're really worried - and also opens up the possibility for interesting moves pulling through from the roof onto the wall above.

In reply to Ramblin dave:

I more meant a sloping roof (probably got the terminology wrong sorry!) but the worry still does apply I guess.

The way Kendal does their sloping roof is really good:

http://www.kendalwall.co.uk/images/stories/gallery/bouldering/bouldering23....

They have a ledge that comes up underneath you so there's never far to fall, if you slip off you just slide down on your bum to the bottom.

In reply to Kieran_John:


The wall at the Biscuit Factory that goes into a very gentle slab at the top with the finish holds normally on a wall behind is quite fun - you generally have to top out onto the slab and then stand up to get the finish. But I can see how this would get samey if you climbed there regularly - maybe a "good option if you've got space" idea.

I guess there's a general principle here - interesting combinations of different angled walls - overhung corners, sharp aretes, hanging slabs, capping overhangs etc can make for really interesting 3D-feeeling routes, but they also constrain the route setters a bit - there are only so many ways you can rock over onto a hanging slab - and risk getting samey after a while.

Traversing walls are good, free-standing traverse boulders are even better, since you can do laps on them.

In reply to Victorine: Try to keep the price competitive. I'm a student and when I come home I live in a kind of no mans land between greater london and essex and bizarrely its cheaper for me to get the train up to the walls in london (mile end, the arc or the tower) than it is to drive to the wall in basildon!

In reply to Victorine: Not sure how much space you have but check out "Boulder Brighton", http://boulderbrighton.com/
IMO they have got it spot on, great bouldering and a great atmosphere.
Good luck!

In reply to Al Cartwright:
....I should add, apart from the cost which i think is rather high for just bouldering.

In reply to Victorine: Boulder central in Birmingham is a good example of indoor bouldering. They have roofs, overhangs, slabs, top-out boulders, good use of volumes and shapes.

The staff are great as well, always happy to help you out on a problem if you are struggling (and want some help)

In reply to Me: thank you Me!

In reply to SteveoS:

Southend/ Rochford area, but definitely agree about setters. Thank you

In reply to alanlgm: Oh there will be music!!

In reply to Rob Laird:
Thank you.. will do

In reply to puppythedog:
Hopefully in Rochford, but unfortunately i think it might take more than a few weeks!.. but you never know!
thanks for the ideas

In reply to Kieran_John:
thanks for the links, its great that you have all taken time to reply.. personally I like topping out.

In reply to jt232:
I agree and will do my best to cater for students. thank you

In reply to Al Cartwright:
will check it out! thank you

In reply to dsgarner:
thank you will look into this one also

In reply to Victorine: A decent bouldering wall in Essex is well overdue, good on you for taking it on.
I agree with a traverse wall got well into the set up they have at the station in Loughbrough at the moment. Also a big fan of the big roof pit they had at redpoint? (Might have been elsewhere thinking about it) been a while since I went but I remember it being mint.
Also student discount

In reply to Victorine:
Thanks guys for all your input! here's to happy climbing!.. watch this space

In reply to Victorine:
I'm in the southend area, so having a wall in rochford would be great if plans do succeed. I've been to basildon and harlow walls and the bouldering is too small (for bas town) and not even worth it at harlow.

I hope all turns out well! It'ld be great to try and get friends and family into climbing without having to travel to far to get there

In reply to Lilo_92:
thanks for that. If I may I would like to use your comment in my business plan.

In reply to Victorine: Yeah that's fine good luck with it all