UKC

Inspired by the wide boys and a recent trip to a decent and affordable sandstone crack climbing venue I have decided to build a crack machine. But I think I want to use my probably 30d board to put a system board for more conventional climbing grips. it would have 20/30cm kickboard and be 2m long (ie 1.70 height).

In my plans it would be placed in between cracks and is likely to be no wider than a meter, may be 1.20 if I manage to slot my finger crack in the middle.

So my questions are:
1) does it seem too narrow? any point in YHO?
2) baring in mind that I'm a weak crimper/pincher how would you set it?
3) How many holds would you place on the fairly small space dedicated?

Cheers for your input (I'll take the slagging too, I know cracks are for deviants).

In reply to French Erick: Erick, here's a link to a cr@ppy quality vid I did of my system board.. 30 degree steeper but the system part is no more than 1.2m wide, its perfectly adequate width for setting something up so I wouldn't worry about the width. The trick is to make the holds suit your level and what you want to achieve from it. You say pinches, try and make them such that you can get do a single 'problem' bottom to top 'fresh' without failing. Then when you do them at intervals you begin to fail on them after a number of reps. The timimg between reps/ number of reps is a whole science in itself and what you want gain from it, pure power/ power endurance, etc etc..
A 30 though is ideal for isolating crimp strength so your on awinner there..

youtube.com/watch?v=VnHfx3Hh0aI&

In reply to Paul R:
Ta Paul.
I think I would be after power endurance more than pure power. I am not that much into bouldering and probably have enough power for my grade and not enough technique. Definitely need work on crimps as I open hand everything. Will give it some thoughts for the set up.

To all, I certainly could do with more suggestions. Likely to buy wood holds to make skin last longer or is it not worth the price difference? I am pretty sure of my crack set up though.
Now to proper pricing and see how much of the training room I can afford...

All welcome to use it if passing by Avoch on the Black Isle BTW.

In reply to French Erick:
bump