UKC

I've seem to hit a Plato at my bouldering grade of around v7
I've been bouldering all day yesterday and felling very sore in the muscles around my shoulders. My thinking is that could be the weak point and need to train these parts to improve. Any thoughts!

In reply to sip a cup:

That when you sell your time travel device you'll make lots of money, and be able to employ some of the greatest climbing legends as your personal trainer.

In reply to sip a cup:

Thanks, John hat? Do you climb or are you too fat.

In reply to sip a cup: id say they are weak as a girls,get to the gym and sort them out

In reply to mark s: any perticular excersises?

In reply to sip a cup: if you want to climb harder dont waste your time in a gym,just climb more.i cant climb hardly at all now from too much weight lifting

In reply to sip a cup: do these exercises and continue climbing. Add in plenty of pull ups and press ups too.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=119

In reply to sip a cup:

dont train, thats the worst thing you can do. just keeping doing what causes the problem.

In reply to sip a cup:

Why don't you try and find some words of wisdom from the man himself?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plato

In reply to sip a cup:
A good shoulder exercise is to pinch a copy of the OED in each hand. Raise arms out to a crucifix position and then gently lower as you exhale. Repeat.
J

In reply to sip a cup:

You might be jumping to conclusions that it is a weak point and test various aspects of functional strength related to the shoulders compared to your mates. The soreness might not be training tiredness but some kind of misalignemnt of the muscles which could lead to impingement. Typically correcting day-to-day posture is the solution. Climbers are generally overdeveloped in the back muscles which leads to a hunched default posture often exacerbated by poor sitting/working positions at a desk.

One aspect of shoulder strength not covered by other posters that is common climber's weakness is shoulder stability. They type of work required is typically hanging off one arm and engaging teh shoulder and controlling rotation. Depending on your starting point this may have to be on a bar but ideally on a large edge such as the beastmaker slot/mouth.

In reply to JCurrie:


or the bible

Thanks Shark!

That's great advice, I do need to keep my agonistic sholder muscles in good order,
Your saying to achieve better sholder stability is to do some one armed hangs on the BM slot
. Is it best to lock off in a few positions?

In reply to sip a cup: if you want stable shoulders, do the exercises in the link I sent you.

I sometimes wonder why I bother

In reply to sip a cup: I think you have got the wrong end of the stick. I am looking to get to the next level of fitness and move up a couple of notches on my bouldering grade having super strong shoulders is going to do this. Pulling a Thera Band a few evenings a week is going to help stable the sholder and that's about it. Shark is pointing out an exercise to overload the muscles to gain more strength. I did a few assisted one arm pulls and some lock offs, I won't know if it's working for at least three or four weeks of overloading.

In reply to mark s: > id say they are weak as a girls,

really? as weak as this girl's? http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68275

In reply to pebbles: Well said Pebbles! Too many armchair climbers on this forum!

In reply to pebbles:
As weak as girls in general. Y'know, like this:
http://spotsettingblog.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/screen-shot-2013-04-13-a...

In reply to sip a cup: i wouldnt accuse the poster of being an armchair climber...;-D

In reply to Gene00:


In reply to Gene00:



Me too. That article was for rehab not strength gain.

x

In reply to sip a cup: > Thanks Shark!


Its not really locking off just engaging the shoulder to pull up very slightly so you aren't merely hanging loose if that makes sense. Do it side on and front on (harder)- no harm doing locks off too BTW

If you want to seriously work shoulder strength you should consider getting rings - iron cross and all that. Cooler than xmas, or is it camper..

In reply to sip a cup: Your shoulders may be sore because you were climbing all day. Anyway, I have a few things to add:
Stretch, top tip. Sport massage will help keep your shoulders healthy and increase blood flow to the muscles. This will also help reduce chance of injury.
Climb more, naturally, that is key. However, training is useful when done properly. As we have already read, climbing uses specific groups of muscles so it is important to consider the opposing muscles too. You don't need to become a beefcake but it'll help your fitness and prevent injury if you workout a bit.
I'm sure all will agree that it's not just about strength. Mental sharpness, technique and flexibility is also important. Of course I can't comment on yours so you'll have to think about that yourself.
Stretch.
Now if you want to work on your power and shoulder strength a bit then there's one drill to try if you feel like it. Lock-off training might help. Have a look online but if you want more info let me know.
That'll do for now. Have fun out there, the most important thing.

In reply to sip a cup:

If your shoulders are uncharacteristically sore then you should consider rest. Injured or not, back-cycling your sessions every six weeks or so will give your shoulders much needed recovery time.

For general health of the shoulder girdle I'd recommend handstands and handwalking. Levers (front, back) and planching will also do much for complete shoulder strength.