UKC

hard slabs in Font

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 williamsf1 17 Aug 2013
Hey guys,

so I have broken my wrist but got a trip to font booked. I will just be out of plaster by the time that I go, so instead of my projects that I had In mind I was wondering if you knew of any slabs in font that are hard, we are stay at le musarde campsite so 95.2 and gorge aux chat will be the main ones but happy to travel about for stuff. any suggestions above 6C would be ace thanks

Ben
 Tom Last 17 Aug 2013
In reply to williamsf1:

I really enjoyed La Défroquée at Cuvier. f6C+, but felt miles easier than Live on Mars f6B at Isatis and Science Friction Direct f6B at Apremont - this last one was in about 40 degrees Celsius though.

Live on Mars is brilliant!
OP williamsf1 17 Aug 2013
In reply to Tom Last: cheers, i'll check that out
 petegunn 17 Aug 2013
In reply to williamsf1:
If you have the 7 & 8s guide you can check out all the slab problems by looking across at the "style column" next to the problems i.e. Roof, Slab, Wall etc. most of the stand out ones also have a * next to them e.g. La Super Prestat *, Duel *.
OP williamsf1 17 Aug 2013
In reply to petegunn: I haven't, but I hear its back in print?
 petegunn 17 Aug 2013
dirty crimper 17 Aug 2013
In reply to williamsf1: l'imposible, duel, golden feet.
 Mehmet Karatay 18 Aug 2013
In reply to petegunn:
> (In reply to williamsf1)
> If you have the 7 & 8s guide

Just be warned, the 7+8 doesn't cover the Trois Pignons area which it sounds like you'll be close to. It is a good guidebook though (well the 5+6 is anyway, which is more within my ability.)

Mehmet
 gg4419 18 Aug 2013
In reply to williamsf1: La Médaille en Chocolat (Black + White 2b) at Apremont.
 balmybaldwin 18 Aug 2013
In reply to williamsf1:

Le science friction
 lowersharpnose 18 Aug 2013
In reply to balmybaldwin:

My guide gave Science Friction 5+, which I thought was stingy to say the least.
 deacondeacon 19 Aug 2013
In reply to Mehmet Karatay:
> (In reply to petegunn)
> [...]
>
> Just be warned, the 7+8 doesn't cover the Trois Pignons area which it sounds like you'll be close to.

7+8's most definitely covers les trois pignon.

 gramee 19 Aug 2013
In reply to williamsf1:

Will second Tom, La Défroquée was quite nice

At Isatis - Caresse (La Marbrée direct), this goes at 7a+, harder for a shortass? - http://bleau.info/isatis/567.html

The beta? from bleau doesn't make it any easier, just saves you about 40 minutes of trying to go direct for the top (and falling in the process) and wondering why it looks so dirty until some helpful soul points out the exit for you to the right
 mark s 19 Aug 2013
In reply to williamsf1: looking at your profile id say find any slab you can,it surprised me on my first font trip just how hard the slabs are.
 petegunn 19 Aug 2013
In reply to Mehmet Karatay: The 7 & 8s guide covers the Trois Pignons area. La Gorge aux Chats, 95.2, Les Gros Sablon, La Roche aux Sabbots, Le Cul de Chein all covered in the 7 & 8s.
OP williamsf1 19 Aug 2013
In reply to petegunn: I shall definitely get on it and buy the 7+8 book
I fancy a go on Duel that looks good. science friction sounds like a typical font sandbag so ill definitely try that
 balmybaldwin 20 Aug 2013
In reply to lowersharpnose:
> (In reply to balmybaldwin)
>
> My guide gave Science Friction 5+, which I thought was stingy to say the least.

Seriously? My guide says 7a, others say 6c+... has it been badly chipped because 6c+ seemed about right when I did it
 galpinos 20 Aug 2013
In reply to balmybaldwin:

Which guide is that? It always used to be 5+ but I thought it had gone up to 6a recently. 7a sounds a bit off....
 galpinos 20 Aug 2013
In reply to galpinos:
> It always used to be 5+ but I thought it had gone up to 6a recently.

Bleau.info confirms this, 5+ pre chipping, 6a now.

Was: http://bleau.info/apremont/2676.html

Now: http://bleau.info/apremont/1462.html
 balmybaldwin 20 Aug 2013
In reply to williamsf1:

Now questioning my sanity/memory....





<checks guide>

Guide says 6b - Fontainebleau Bouldering "off-Piste" (2006)

<checks other guide>

Guide Says 5b - Fontainebleau Climbs (The purple one) (1999)

Bleau.info says 6a

http://bleau.info/apremont/1462.html

Ah well, anyway it's a good slab problem
M0nkey 21 Aug 2013
In reply to williamsf1:

Be warned, the rule of thumb is that slabs are nails in font. You wouldn't be the first 7a boulderer to suffer from a crisis of confidence after a long day shredding fingernails on a 5+ sandbag slab in font. The locals have long since mastered this style of climbing and understand the friction so much better than visitors.
 Durbs 21 Aug 2013
In reply to M0nkey:

SF has been on my ticklist for 3 trips to Font* - I always had it in my mind it was a definitive Font 6a... Who the flop chipped it?! Was it the same nutter who chipped lots of other stuff?

*Have yet to attempt it, have got other 6a slabs though.
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